August 23, 2023 | CLIMBING
PEDRAFORCA. CLIMBING IN THE ENCHANTED MOUNTAIN
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
The Pollegó Superior (2,506 meters) is the highest peak of the Pedraforca massif, located in the Berguedà region, between the villages of Gósol and Saldes. Over the years, Pedraforca has been the scene of legendary climbs, both on rock and ice, although you can also reach the summit by walking. On foot, there are two classic paths: one climbs a long, vertical, and challenging scree slope, which is accessed a few kilometers after leaving the Lluís Estasen Refuge, located in a beautiful meadow at 1,675 meters above sea level. The other path goes up the Canal del Verdet, a vertical and demanding route, where you even have to use your hands to progress at times.
If you have climbing knowledge and want to enjoy a high-mountain atmosphere in every sense, the most elegant way to reach some of the highest points of Pedraforca is by climbing.
The history of climbing on the Pedraforca massif began with Lluís Estasen, Josep Puntas, Jofre Vila, and Josep Rovira, who, after several attempts on June 30, 1928, managed to establish an intelligent route along the north face of the mountain, eventually reaching the Calderer summit.
The "Vía Estasen", the name of the route, is an itinerary of about 600 meters, with difficulties of up to IV+. The route is sparsely equipped, and despite what the guide may suggest, you need to know how to navigate the wall to always follow the most logical path. The atmosphere is wild and alpine, making the activity a day of classic climbing in capital letters.
If you want to know more about the history of the first ascent of the north face of Pedraforca, you can watch the documentary "L’altra cara de la forca" (2008), a historical reenactment of the climb by Estasen, Vila, and Rovira. Here's the link for the documentary.
Although without a doubt the "Vía Estasen" is the best-known climbing route on Pedraforca, there are many other options on the massif to enjoy some of the best limestone rock in the entire Iberian Peninsula.
Also on the north face, one alternative to the "Vía Estasen" during the warmer months is "Homedes" (430m V+/AO). This route leads to the summit of Gat, a characteristic peak known by that name because it resembles a cat.
The first ascent of "Homedes" dates back to the year when Francesc Homedes, Bernard Boixeda, and Ramon Albareda achieved it on September 8. The route is semi-equipped, and in addition to several quickdraws, a full set of aliens, friends up to #3, and some nuts are needed. The difficulty is consistently around IV+, with occasional passages of V/V+.
To descend from the Gat summit, we'll first do a rappel, which will leave us on the ever-present scree slope, the same way down if we climbed the "Vía Estasen".
Often, we think that to enjoy the high mountains, we must travel to the Pyrenees, Alps, or Dolomites, but we forget about other must-visit places. The Pedraforca massif is one of them. A mountain with a summit at 2,506 meters above sea level, breathtaking views, and an exceptional alpine atmosphere. Everyone should climb Pedraforca at least once in their life.
If you’ve ever found yourself clinging to a rock wall with sweaty hands, shaky muscles, and a racing heart, you’ve probably asked yourself: why on earth am I doing this? What is it about rock climbing that draws us in? What’s the point of all this effort to scale rocks and mountains?
LEARN MOREThe province of Tarragona has some of the best areas in the world for sport climbing. Discover our selection.
LEARN MOREYou can contact us via email at [email protected] or by phone to (+34) 645 432 307, or by filling up the contact form in the following link.
(Translated by Google) A very good experience! The truth is that climbing with Santi I learned many things and had even more fun. The explanations were very practical and useful. I wanted to repeat the experience and continue learning. Thank you!
(Original) ¡Una experiència muy buena! La verdad es que escalando con Santi aprendí muchas cosas y me divertí aún más. Las explicaciones fueron muy prácticas e útiles. Me quedé con ganas de repetir la experiencia y seguir aprendiendo. ¡Gracias!
I had an incredible experience climbing Naranjo de Bulnes/Picu Urriellu with Santi. From the very first emails, communication was quick, clear, professional, and helpful - he gave us detailed advice on routes, logistics, and even transport and accommodation options.
On the mountain, Santi was outstanding you could see his love for the mountains and watched him come alive! He explained everything very clearly. His knowledge of the area and his patience with us made the whole day very enjoyable.
We can't recommend him enough - if you're thinking of climbing in Picos de Europa or anywhere else, book with Santi. Thank you for helping us make this such a memorable trip!
(Translated by Google) A climbing baptism is one of those moments that are not forgotten. Perfect as a gift for my children. Santi has helped us with a lot of patience and professionalism and we have all learned a little. Challenge completed! Thank you!
(Original) Un bautizo de escalada es de esos momentos que no se olvidan. Perfecto como regalo para mis hijos. Santi nos ha ayudado con mucha paciencia y profesionalidad y todos hemos aprendido un poco. Reto superado! Gracias!
(Translated by Google) I have done the course to learn to climb first and I have loved it. I have acquired a lot of autonomy thanks to Santi, who is very nice and you can tell he knows a lot. He is very professional and gives a lot of security. Thank you very much!!!
(Original) He hecho el curso para aprender a escalar de primera y me ha encantado. He adquirido muchísima autonomia gracias a Santi, que es muy majo y se le nota que sabe muchísimo. Es muy profesional y da mucha seguridad. Muchas gracias!!!
We did a two-day climbing course in Siurana and Arboli and couldn't be happier. Giordano is one of the best guides I have gone out climbing with, he explains things super well and has something to offer no matter your level. The communication with SouthClimb before the course was smooth - they gave us good recommendations about the best ways to get to the area, places to stay, and what to expect.
(Translated by Google) The Southclimb climbing course taught by Santi has been very motivating, helping me to become aware of the dangers and how to take security measures to be able to enjoy this sport to the fullest, 👍
(Original) El curso de escalada de Southclimb impartido por Santi ha sido muy motivador, me a ayudando a concienciarme sobre los peligros y como tomar medidas de seguridad para poder disfrutar al máximo de este deporte, 👍
(Translated by Google) Totally recommended! A great experience at the hands of Santi, very professional and friendly. We will definitely see each other again soon. 🤘🏿
(Original) Totalmente recomendable! Una experiencia buenísima de la mano de Santi, muy profesional y simpático. Sin duda nos volveremos a ver pronto. 🤘🏿
(Translated by Google) I did the long route course with Santi and the experience was excellent, with great emphasis on safety and all the factors to take into account when planning a long route and the necessary manoeuvres. The practice day left us to work and find our way on our own, intervening when necessary and always keeping a watchful eye that everything was done safely. Always with good humor and good treatment, which is not less in situations of nerves and tension. Thank you so much!
(Original) Hice el curso de vía larga con Santi y la experiencia fue excelente, con mucho énfasis en la seguridad y todos las factores a tener en cuenta para planificar una vía larga y las maniobras necesarias. El día de práctica nos dejó trabajar y buscar camino solos, interviniendo cuando era necesario y manteniendo siempre una mirada atenta a que todo esté hecho de manera segura. Siempre con buen humor y buen trato, que no es menor en situaciones de nervios y de tensión. Muchas gracias!
(Translated by Google) Great experience! Santi is a crack. It explains great and gives a lot of security. 100% recommended whether you want to start from scratch or if you already have previous experience and want to finish perfecting.
(Original) Genial experiencia! Santi es un crack. Se explica genial y da mucha seguridad. Recomendable 100% tanto si quieres iniciarte desde cero como si ya tienes experiencia previa y quieres acabar de perfeccionar.
(Translated by Google) Cool!!! We will repeat for sure!!!
(Original)Genial!!! Repetiremos fijo!!!
