August 23, 2023 | CLIMBING
PEDRAFORCA. CLIMBING IN THE ENCHANTED MOUNTAIN
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
The Pollegó Superior (2,506 meters) is the highest peak of the Pedraforca massif, located in the Berguedà region, between the villages of Gósol and Saldes. Over the years, Pedraforca has been the scene of legendary climbs, both on rock and ice, although you can also reach the summit by walking. On foot, there are two classic paths: one climbs a long, vertical, and challenging scree slope, which is accessed a few kilometers after leaving the Lluís Estasen Refuge, located in a beautiful meadow at 1,675 meters above sea level. The other path goes up the Canal del Verdet, a vertical and demanding route, where you even have to use your hands to progress at times.
If you have climbing knowledge and want to enjoy a high-mountain atmosphere in every sense, the most elegant way to reach some of the highest points of Pedraforca is by climbing.
The history of climbing on the Pedraforca massif began with Lluís Estasen, Josep Puntas, Jofre Vila, and Josep Rovira, who, after several attempts on June 30, 1928, managed to establish an intelligent route along the north face of the mountain, eventually reaching the Calderer summit.
The "Vía Estasen", the name of the route, is an itinerary of about 600 meters, with difficulties of up to IV+. The route is sparsely equipped, and despite what the guide may suggest, you need to know how to navigate the wall to always follow the most logical path. The atmosphere is wild and alpine, making the activity a day of classic climbing in capital letters.
If you want to know more about the history of the first ascent of the north face of Pedraforca, you can watch the documentary "L’altra cara de la forca" (2008), a historical reenactment of the climb by Estasen, Vila, and Rovira. Here's the link for the documentary.
Although without a doubt the "Vía Estasen" is the best-known climbing route on Pedraforca, there are many other options on the massif to enjoy some of the best limestone rock in the entire Iberian Peninsula.
Also on the north face, one alternative to the "Vía Estasen" during the warmer months is "Homedes" (430m V+/AO). This route leads to the summit of Gat, a characteristic peak known by that name because it resembles a cat.
The first ascent of "Homedes" dates back to the year when Francesc Homedes, Bernard Boixeda, and Ramon Albareda achieved it on September 8. The route is semi-equipped, and in addition to several quickdraws, a full set of aliens, friends up to #3, and some nuts are needed. The difficulty is consistently around IV+, with occasional passages of V/V+.
To descend from the Gat summit, we'll first do a rappel, which will leave us on the ever-present scree slope, the same way down if we climbed the "Vía Estasen".
Often, we think that to enjoy the high mountains, we must travel to the Pyrenees, Alps, or Dolomites, but we forget about other must-visit places. The Pedraforca massif is one of them. A mountain with a summit at 2,506 meters above sea level, breathtaking views, and an exceptional alpine atmosphere. Everyone should climb Pedraforca at least once in their life.
Tim visited from NYC and we went climbing in the best climbing areas in Catalunya.face
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(Translated by Google) The best way to get started in rock climbing. We have felt super safe, everything very well explained and we have had a great time. 100% recommended!
(Original) La mejor manera para iniciarse en la escalada en roca. Nos hemos sentido súper seguros, todo muy bien explicado y nos lo hemos pasado genial. Recomendable 100%!
(Translated by Google) It was a perfect day! The activity was very well organized and the experience was positive! Now I look forward to the next appointment, raising the level and learning more!
(Original) Fue un dia perfecto! La actividad muy bien organitzada y la experiència positiva! Ahora ya espero para la siguientre cita, subiendo el nivel y aprendiendo mas!
I had a great experience today climbing with Giordano in Garraf! Just driving to the location was beautiful and the views once you reached the top were spectacular! I felt very safe with my instructor and he balanced making sure I had fun with safety, which you could tell was his priority. He was so encouraging throughout my climbs and made me feel good about what capabilities I had. I will be looking into taking a course with southclimb now and would recommend them to others. Santi was exceptional with communication on WhatsApp and made the entire process very smooth and simple. Thank you!
(Translated by Google) Highly recommended, they took us in a perfect environment for climbing, with other options in case it was very crowded, they taught us everything we needed to be able to be autonomous in terms of the most appropriate security techniques, practicing everything from there. first moment: go first, place the tapes well and plate, use the grigri in the safest way, make a meeting also in the safest way, and even fall and dynamization techniques. I am very grateful because they solved all my doubts and even helped me choose material!! Nice day of climbing, good people and a lot of learning! A hug to Santi and Yoel
(Original) Muy recomendable, nos llevaron en un entorno perfecto para escalar, con otras opciones por si estaba muy lleno de gente, nos enseñaron todo lo necesario para poder ser autónomo en lo que se refiere a las técnicas más adecuadas de seguridad, practicándolo todo des de el primer momento: ir de primero, colocar bien las cintaa y chapar, usar el grigri de la forma más segura, hacer una reunión también de la forma más segura, e incluso técnicas de caída y dinamización. Estoy muy agradecida porque resolvieron todas mis dudas e incluso me ayudaron a elegir material!! Día agradable de escalada, buena gente y mucho aprendizaje!! Un abrazo a Santi y Yoel
(Translated by Google) It has been a very good experience taking the climbing initiation course, we have learned basic concepts in a very entertaining and fun way. 100% recommendable. Surely we will repeat with the course a little more advanced! Thank you Santi and Guillem!
(Original) Ha sido una muy buena experiencia realizar el curso de iniciación a la escalada, hemos aprendido conceptos básicos de manera muy amena y divertida. 100% recomendable. Seguro que repetiremos con el curso un poco mas avanzado! Gracias Santi y Guillem !
(Translated by Google) I did an initiation course in climbing and it has helped me to start with safety and knowledge. I highly recommend him and Santi is an excellent trainer.
(Original) Hice un curso de iniciación a la escalada y me ha servido para poder iniciarme con seguridad y conocimientos. Lo recomiendo mucho y Santi es un formador excelente.
(Translated by Google) Great experience! In addition to good training and security. They are the cane! I recommend it.
(Original) Gran experiencia! Ademas de buena formación y seguridad. Son la caña! Lo recomiendo.
Best Guide Ever! Seriously- we had such a fun day with Santi in Montserrat. My 3 friends from Switzerland were visiting and we all had such blast! I can truly recommend to book a tour with South Climb. Professional, fun and tons of positive energy 🙏 Thank you for everything.
(Translated by Google) A crack as a professional and as a person. We did the long track course and we managed to be self-sufficient to do one and it motivated us to do more!! See you in the next course 😋
(Original) Un crack como profesional y como persona. Hicimos el curso de vía larga y conseguimos ser autosuficientes para hacer una y nos motivo para hacer más!! Nos vemos en el siguiente curso 😋
(Translated by Google) Fantastic people who teach you calmly and most importantly having fun. Thank you!!! To repeat
(Original) Gente fantástica que te enseña con calma y lo más importante disfrutando. Merci!!! Para repetir
