August 23, 2023 | CLIMBING
PEDRAFORCA. CLIMBING IN THE ENCHANTED MOUNTAIN
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
The Pollegó Superior (2,506 meters) is the highest peak of the Pedraforca massif, located in the Berguedà region, between the villages of Gósol and Saldes. Over the years, Pedraforca has been the scene of legendary climbs, both on rock and ice, although you can also reach the summit by walking. On foot, there are two classic paths: one climbs a long, vertical, and challenging scree slope, which is accessed a few kilometers after leaving the Lluís Estasen Refuge, located in a beautiful meadow at 1,675 meters above sea level. The other path goes up the Canal del Verdet, a vertical and demanding route, where you even have to use your hands to progress at times.
If you have climbing knowledge and want to enjoy a high-mountain atmosphere in every sense, the most elegant way to reach some of the highest points of Pedraforca is by climbing.
The history of climbing on the Pedraforca massif began with Lluís Estasen, Josep Puntas, Jofre Vila, and Josep Rovira, who, after several attempts on June 30, 1928, managed to establish an intelligent route along the north face of the mountain, eventually reaching the Calderer summit.
The "Vía Estasen", the name of the route, is an itinerary of about 600 meters, with difficulties of up to IV+. The route is sparsely equipped, and despite what the guide may suggest, you need to know how to navigate the wall to always follow the most logical path. The atmosphere is wild and alpine, making the activity a day of classic climbing in capital letters.
If you want to know more about the history of the first ascent of the north face of Pedraforca, you can watch the documentary "L’altra cara de la forca" (2008), a historical reenactment of the climb by Estasen, Vila, and Rovira. Here's the link for the documentary.
Although without a doubt the "Vía Estasen" is the best-known climbing route on Pedraforca, there are many other options on the massif to enjoy some of the best limestone rock in the entire Iberian Peninsula.
Also on the north face, one alternative to the "Vía Estasen" during the warmer months is "Homedes" (430m V+/AO). This route leads to the summit of Gat, a characteristic peak known by that name because it resembles a cat.
The first ascent of "Homedes" dates back to the year when Francesc Homedes, Bernard Boixeda, and Ramon Albareda achieved it on September 8. The route is semi-equipped, and in addition to several quickdraws, a full set of aliens, friends up to #3, and some nuts are needed. The difficulty is consistently around IV+, with occasional passages of V/V+.
To descend from the Gat summit, we'll first do a rappel, which will leave us on the ever-present scree slope, the same way down if we climbed the "Vía Estasen".
Often, we think that to enjoy the high mountains, we must travel to the Pyrenees, Alps, or Dolomites, but we forget about other must-visit places. The Pedraforca massif is one of them. A mountain with a summit at 2,506 meters above sea level, breathtaking views, and an exceptional alpine atmosphere. Everyone should climb Pedraforca at least once in their life.
A short tale about a climbing trip to the iconic Verdon Gorge.
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(Translated by Google) An incredible experience. I hope to return on the rock very soon
(Original) Una experiencia increible. Espero volver en la roca muy pronto
(Translated by Google) My 12 year old son and I (50) did the rock baptism. I have no climbing experience. It was great. Santi very attentive and friendly at all times. It gave us a lot of security. It adapts perfectly to the level of each one and encourages you to improve yourself. Without a doubt, totally recommended! Thank you very much for everything Santa!
(Original) Hicimos el bautizo en roca mi hijo de 12 años y yo (50). Yo sin ninguna experiencia en escalada. Fue genial. Santi muy atento y simpático en todo momento. Nos dio mucha seguridad. Se adapta perfectamente al nivel de cada uno y anima a superarte. Sin duda alguna totalmente recomendable! Muchas gracias por todo Sant!
(Translated by Google) We did a climbing baptism yesterday with Santi and we loved it, he was super attentive, kind and always attentive to you, he made us feel safe and enjoy ourselves a lot. I recommend it 100%.
(Original) Hicimos un bautizo de escalada ayer con Santi y nos encantó, el super atento, amable y en todo momento está pendiente de ti, hizo que nos sintiéramos seguros y disfrutáramos mucho. Lo recomiendo 100%.
(Translated by Google) We have really enjoyed the experience and we have finished with the basic notions well learned. Santi is a good professional, he teaches very well and has been very kind at all times. We will be back!
(Original) Hemos disfrutado mucho de la experiencia y hemos acabado con las nociones básicas bien aprendidas. Santi es un buen profesional, enseña muy bien y ha sido muy amable en todo momento. Volveremos!
(Translated by Google) Take the long route course: two days, the first one took us to combat Montserrat, where we went from a theoretical explanation with exercises in the place to climbing and practicing what we saw. At all times checking and explaining why we do what we do at each stage. Day two: straight to one of the caps, where we immediately began to climb applying what we had learned with a long route of multiple meetings. You finish the course with not only tools to be able to do it alone, but with a way of thinking when it comes to Set up your rappelling or your meetings to be able to adapt to any situation! Super recommended and the best predisposition of Santi!! Super serious, and always very clear with each step we took.
(Original) Tome el curso de vía larga: dos dias, el primero nos llevó a combato Montserrat, donde pasamos de un explicación teórica con ejercicios en el lugar a escalar y practicar lo visto. En todo momento chequeando y explicando el porqué hacemos lo que hacemos en cada etapa. Día dos: directo a uno de los gorros, donde inmediatamente empezamos a subir aplicando lo aprendido con una vía larga de múltiples reuniones. Terminas el curso con no solo herramientas para poder hacerlo solo, sino con una forma de pensar a la hora de Montar tu rapel o tus reuniones para poder adaptarte a cualquier situacion! Súper recomendable y la mejor predisposición de Santi!! Súper serio, y siempre muy claro con cada paso que dimos.
(Translated by Google) With Santi and SouthClimb, you don't just learn how to do figure eights, how to do the gri-gri, how to be the first... You also learn what it means to be a good climber and especially accompanied by a beautiful person. Lots of love and looking forward to seeing you again soon!! // With Santi and SouthClimb you don't just learn to tie knots, use the gri-gri or go first... You learn what it means to be a good climber and above all accompanied by a beautiful person. Much love and waiting for the reunion soon!!
(Original) Amb el Santi i amb SouthClimb no només aprens a fer vuits, a fer anar el gri-gri, a fer de primer... Si no que aprens el que és ser un bon escalador i sobretot acompanyat d'una persona preciosa. Molt d'amor i amb ganes de retrobar-nos ben aviat!! // Con Santi y con SouthClimb no solo aprendes a hacer nudos, a usar el gri-gri o a ir de primero... Si no que aprendes el que es ser un buen escalador y sobre todo acompañado de una persona preciosa. Mucho amor y esperando el re-encuentro pronto!!
(Translated by Google) We made a climbing baptism. We had a great time. Santi is super professional. An entertaining day suitable for all ages. It does not require prior knowledge of climbing.
(Original) Realizamos un bautizo de escalada. Lo pasamos genial. Santi es super profesional. Un dia entretenido apto para todas las edades. No requiere conocimiento previo sobre escalada.
(Translated by Google) A very good experience! The truth is that climbing with Santi I learned many things and had even more fun. The explanations were very practical and useful. I wanted to repeat the experience and continue learning. Thank you!
(Original) ¡Una experiència muy buena! La verdad es que escalando con Santi aprendí muchas cosas y me divertí aún más. Las explicaciones fueron muy prácticas e útiles. Me quedé con ganas de repetir la experiencia y seguir aprendiendo. ¡Gracias!
(Translated by Google) Great experience! Santi is a crack. It explains great and gives a lot of security. 100% recommended for everyone (whether you are starting from scratch or if you already know and want to learn/improve).
(Original) Genial experiencia! Santi es un crack. Se explica genial y da mucha seguridad. Recomendable 100% para todo el mundo (tanto si empiezas desde cero como si ya sabes y quieres aprender/perfeccionar).
(Translated by Google) Great 10/10
(Original)Genial 10/10
