August 23, 2023 | CLIMBING
PEDRAFORCA. CLIMBING IN THE ENCHANTED MOUNTAIN
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
The Pollegó Superior (2,506 meters) is the highest peak of the Pedraforca massif, located in the Berguedà region, between the villages of Gósol and Saldes. Over the years, Pedraforca has been the scene of legendary climbs, both on rock and ice, although you can also reach the summit by walking. On foot, there are two classic paths: one climbs a long, vertical, and challenging scree slope, which is accessed a few kilometers after leaving the Lluís Estasen Refuge, located in a beautiful meadow at 1,675 meters above sea level. The other path goes up the Canal del Verdet, a vertical and demanding route, where you even have to use your hands to progress at times.
If you have climbing knowledge and want to enjoy a high-mountain atmosphere in every sense, the most elegant way to reach some of the highest points of Pedraforca is by climbing.
The history of climbing on the Pedraforca massif began with Lluís Estasen, Josep Puntas, Jofre Vila, and Josep Rovira, who, after several attempts on June 30, 1928, managed to establish an intelligent route along the north face of the mountain, eventually reaching the Calderer summit.
The "Vía Estasen", the name of the route, is an itinerary of about 600 meters, with difficulties of up to IV+. The route is sparsely equipped, and despite what the guide may suggest, you need to know how to navigate the wall to always follow the most logical path. The atmosphere is wild and alpine, making the activity a day of classic climbing in capital letters.
If you want to know more about the history of the first ascent of the north face of Pedraforca, you can watch the documentary "L’altra cara de la forca" (2008), a historical reenactment of the climb by Estasen, Vila, and Rovira. Here's the link for the documentary.
Although without a doubt the "Vía Estasen" is the best-known climbing route on Pedraforca, there are many other options on the massif to enjoy some of the best limestone rock in the entire Iberian Peninsula.
Also on the north face, one alternative to the "Vía Estasen" during the warmer months is "Homedes" (430m V+/AO). This route leads to the summit of Gat, a characteristic peak known by that name because it resembles a cat.
The first ascent of "Homedes" dates back to the year when Francesc Homedes, Bernard Boixeda, and Ramon Albareda achieved it on September 8. The route is semi-equipped, and in addition to several quickdraws, a full set of aliens, friends up to #3, and some nuts are needed. The difficulty is consistently around IV+, with occasional passages of V/V+.
To descend from the Gat summit, we'll first do a rappel, which will leave us on the ever-present scree slope, the same way down if we climbed the "Vía Estasen".
Often, we think that to enjoy the high mountains, we must travel to the Pyrenees, Alps, or Dolomites, but we forget about other must-visit places. The Pedraforca massif is one of them. A mountain with a summit at 2,506 meters above sea level, breathtaking views, and an exceptional alpine atmosphere. Everyone should climb Pedraforca at least once in their life.
Discover the Sol Solet Climbing Route in Can Jorba, MontserratMontserrat, with its unique rock formations and spectacular landscapes, is an iconic climbing destination in Catalonia. Within this rock paradise, the Sol Solet route in Can Jorba stands out as one of the most accessible and enjoyable climbs for those seeking a combination of adventure and natural beauty
LEARN MOREIf you’ve ever found yourself clinging to a rock wall with sweaty hands, shaky muscles, and a racing heart, you’ve probably asked yourself: why on earth am I doing this? What is it about rock climbing that draws us in? What’s the point of all this effort to scale rocks and mountains?
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(Translated by Google) A unique experience. I loved. I highly recommend it. Santi is a very professional. To repeat!!!
(Original) Una experiencia única. Me encantó. Lo recomiendo mucho. Santi es un muy profesional. Para repetir!!!
(Translated by Google) My 12 year old son and I (50) did the rock baptism. I have no climbing experience. It was great. Santi very attentive and friendly at all times. It gave us a lot of security. It adapts perfectly to the level of each one and encourages you to improve yourself. Without a doubt, totally recommended! Thank you very much for everything Santa!
(Original) Hicimos el bautizo en roca mi hijo de 12 años y yo (50). Yo sin ninguna experiencia en escalada. Fue genial. Santi muy atento y simpático en todo momento. Nos dio mucha seguridad. Se adapta perfectamente al nivel de cada uno y anima a superarte. Sin duda alguna totalmente recomendable! Muchas gracias por todo Sant!
I had a great experience today climbing with Giordano in Garraf! Just driving to the location was beautiful and the views once you reached the top were spectacular! I felt very safe with my instructor and he balanced making sure I had fun with safety, which you could tell was his priority. He was so encouraging throughout my climbs and made me feel good about what capabilities I had. I will be looking into taking a course with southclimb now and would recommend them to others. Santi was exceptional with communication on WhatsApp and made the entire process very smooth and simple. Thank you!
(Translated by Google) Santi has accompanied us on this adventure of entering the world of the long way. The course has helped us practice the maneuvers and understand the why of each step and gain confidence! Super pedagogically and with a lot of joy and patience!!! Highly recommended!
(Original) El Santi ens ha acompanyat en aquesta aventura d'endinsar-nos al món de la via llarga. El curs ens ha servit per poder practicar les maniobres i entendre el per què de cada pas i anar agafant confiança! Super pedagògicament i amb molta alegria i paciència!!! Molt recomanable!
(Translated by Google) A great experience with a better professional !!! 100% recommended.
(Original) Una gran experiencia con un mejor profesional!!! 100% recomendado.
We had an awesome time with Mariano from South Climb! Did 2 days of guided climbing (first in Montserrat then in Gelida). It was great, he found routes that worked for both of us at our different levels (beginner and intermediate). He also had lots of tips to share to help us improve, which made the whole experience so much more valuable. Would highly recommend and would definitely come back!
(Translated by Google) An incredible professional personally had a fabulous time at the rope climbing baptism totally recommended 🤘🤘🤘 you won't regret it
(Original) Un profesional increíble personalmente lo pase de fábula en el bautizo de escalada en cuerda totalmente recomendable 🤘🤘🤘 no te arrepentirás
(Translated by Google) I'm super glad I found SouthClimb. It was my first time rock climbing, and even though my teammates were more level than me, Yoel was very patient and helped me a lot. I am sure that in a while I will appreciate all the advice and "good uses" that he gave us. 6 stars!
(Original) Estoy super contento de haber encontrado a SouthClimb. Era mi primera vez escalando en roca, y pese a que mis compañeros tenían más nivel que yo, Yoel fue muy paciente y me ayudó un montón. Estoy seguro de que dentro de un tiempo agradeceré todos los consejos y "buenos usos" que él nos regaló. ¡De 6 estrellas!
(Translated by Google) Very nice. Punctual and also aware of you at all times. I will repeat
(Original) Muy agradables. Puntuales y además pendientes de ti en todo momento. Repetiré
(Translated by Google) A crack as a professional and as a person. We did the long track course and we managed to be self-sufficient to do one and it motivated us to do more!! See you in the next course 😋
(Original) Un crack como profesional y como persona. Hicimos el curso de vía larga y conseguimos ser autosuficientes para hacer una y nos motivo para hacer más!! Nos vemos en el siguiente curso 😋
