August 23, 2023 | CLIMBING
PEDRAFORCA. CLIMBING IN THE ENCHANTED MOUNTAIN
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
The Pollegó Superior (2,506 meters) is the highest peak of the Pedraforca massif, located in the Berguedà region, between the villages of Gósol and Saldes. Over the years, Pedraforca has been the scene of legendary climbs, both on rock and ice, although you can also reach the summit by walking. On foot, there are two classic paths: one climbs a long, vertical, and challenging scree slope, which is accessed a few kilometers after leaving the Lluís Estasen Refuge, located in a beautiful meadow at 1,675 meters above sea level. The other path goes up the Canal del Verdet, a vertical and demanding route, where you even have to use your hands to progress at times.
If you have climbing knowledge and want to enjoy a high-mountain atmosphere in every sense, the most elegant way to reach some of the highest points of Pedraforca is by climbing.
The history of climbing on the Pedraforca massif began with Lluís Estasen, Josep Puntas, Jofre Vila, and Josep Rovira, who, after several attempts on June 30, 1928, managed to establish an intelligent route along the north face of the mountain, eventually reaching the Calderer summit.
The "Vía Estasen", the name of the route, is an itinerary of about 600 meters, with difficulties of up to IV+. The route is sparsely equipped, and despite what the guide may suggest, you need to know how to navigate the wall to always follow the most logical path. The atmosphere is wild and alpine, making the activity a day of classic climbing in capital letters.
If you want to know more about the history of the first ascent of the north face of Pedraforca, you can watch the documentary "L’altra cara de la forca" (2008), a historical reenactment of the climb by Estasen, Vila, and Rovira. Here's the link for the documentary.
Although without a doubt the "Vía Estasen" is the best-known climbing route on Pedraforca, there are many other options on the massif to enjoy some of the best limestone rock in the entire Iberian Peninsula.
Also on the north face, one alternative to the "Vía Estasen" during the warmer months is "Homedes" (430m V+/AO). This route leads to the summit of Gat, a characteristic peak known by that name because it resembles a cat.
The first ascent of "Homedes" dates back to the year when Francesc Homedes, Bernard Boixeda, and Ramon Albareda achieved it on September 8. The route is semi-equipped, and in addition to several quickdraws, a full set of aliens, friends up to #3, and some nuts are needed. The difficulty is consistently around IV+, with occasional passages of V/V+.
To descend from the Gat summit, we'll first do a rappel, which will leave us on the ever-present scree slope, the same way down if we climbed the "Vía Estasen".
Often, we think that to enjoy the high mountains, we must travel to the Pyrenees, Alps, or Dolomites, but we forget about other must-visit places. The Pedraforca massif is one of them. A mountain with a summit at 2,506 meters above sea level, breathtaking views, and an exceptional alpine atmosphere. Everyone should climb Pedraforca at least once in their life.
If you are a nature and adventure enthusiast, Montserrat awaits you with open arms.
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We did a two-day climbing course in Siurana and Arboli and couldn't be happier. Giordano is one of the best guides I have gone out climbing with, he explains things super well and has something to offer no matter your level. The communication with SouthClimb before the course was smooth - they gave us good recommendations about the best ways to get to the area, places to stay, and what to expect.
(Translated by Google) Take the long route course: two days, the first one took us to combat Montserrat, where we went from a theoretical explanation with exercises in the place to climbing and practicing what we saw. At all times checking and explaining why we do what we do at each stage. Day two: straight to one of the caps, where we immediately began to climb applying what we had learned with a long route of multiple meetings. You finish the course with not only tools to be able to do it alone, but with a way of thinking when it comes to Set up your rappelling or your meetings to be able to adapt to any situation! Super recommended and the best predisposition of Santi!! Super serious, and always very clear with each step we took.
(Original) Tome el curso de vía larga: dos dias, el primero nos llevó a combato Montserrat, donde pasamos de un explicación teórica con ejercicios en el lugar a escalar y practicar lo visto. En todo momento chequeando y explicando el porqué hacemos lo que hacemos en cada etapa. Día dos: directo a uno de los gorros, donde inmediatamente empezamos a subir aplicando lo aprendido con una vía larga de múltiples reuniones. Terminas el curso con no solo herramientas para poder hacerlo solo, sino con una forma de pensar a la hora de Montar tu rapel o tus reuniones para poder adaptarte a cualquier situacion! Súper recomendable y la mejor predisposición de Santi!! Súper serio, y siempre muy claro con cada paso que dimos.
I had an amazing time here. It was only my second time climbing outdoors and I didn’t really know what to expect. Santi, the guide, paced the difficulty of the routes really well so I was able to progress each day. This trip exceeded all my expectations.
(Translated by Google) 100% recommendable. Santi is a crack, and he explains himself great! Eager to repeat!!
(Original) 100% recomendable. Santi es un crack, y se explica genial! Con ganas de repetir!!
(Translated by Google) A few hours of very pleasant climbing in Arbolí with the children. Great success, with a great time. Santi, the mountain guide, takes care of everything: the material, the routes, the level of difficulty adapted to each one, the photos, the security, and also his attention to everyone and everything for the preparation, before meeting to climb . Southclimb offers the knowledge and experience that allow you to learn, overcome limits, gain confidence, enjoy and share unforgettable family moments. A thousand thanks to you Santi Valerga
(Original) Unas horas de escalada muy agradables en Arbolí con los niños. Gran éxito, con un tiempo estupendo. Santi, el guia de montaña, se encarga de todo : el material, las rutas, el nivel de dificultad adaptado a cada uno, las fotos, la seguridad, y también su atenciòn a todos y todo para la preparaciòn, antes de reunirse para escalar. Southclimb ofrece el saber y la experiencia que permiten aprender, superar limites, tomar confianza, disfrutar y compartir inolvidables momentos de familia. Mil gracias a ti Santi Valerga
(Translated by Google) Excellent course with Santi. I have done the rock climbing initiation course, a very complete course and ideal for those people who have never rock climbed or who already climb but want to improve. Apart from the great professionalism and confidence that he transmits at all times, I want to highlight the detail of being very aware of each one of us (group of 6 people). It has also taken into account the weather and the sectors where to climb without wind or cold. Very highly recommended!
(Original) Excelente curso con Santi. He hecho el curso de iniciación a escalada en Roca, curso muy completo y ideal para esas personas que no han escalado en roca nunca o que ya escalan pero quieren perfeccionar. A parte de la gran profesionalidad y confianza que transmite en todo momento, quiero destacar el detalle de estar muy pendiente de cada uno de nosotros (grupo de 6 personas). También ha tenido en cuenta la meteo y los sectores dónde escalar sin viento ni frío. Muy muy recomendable!
(Translated by Google) Fantastic course on fear management in climbing. Magnificent professionals have offered us a very useful and unforgettable experience.
(Original) Fantástico curso de gestión del miedo en la escalada. Los profesionales magníficos, nos han ofrecido una experiencia muy útil e inolvidable.
(Translated by Google) Fantastic!
(Original)Fantàstic!
(Translated by Google) Great experience from Santi's hand. We did two long routes in Monserrat and Santi was very professional at all times and a wonderful person. 10/10!!
(Original) Buenísima experiencia de la mano de Santi. Hicimos dos rutas largas en Monserrat y Santi fue muy profesional en todo momento y una persona maravillosa. 10/10!!
(Translated by Google) I'm super glad I found SouthClimb. It was my first time rock climbing, and even though my teammates were more level than me, Yoel was very patient and helped me a lot. I am sure that in a while I will appreciate all the advice and "good uses" that he gave us. 6 stars!
(Original) Estoy super contento de haber encontrado a SouthClimb. Era mi primera vez escalando en roca, y pese a que mis compañeros tenían más nivel que yo, Yoel fue muy paciente y me ayudó un montón. Estoy seguro de que dentro de un tiempo agradeceré todos los consejos y "buenos usos" que él nos regaló. ¡De 6 estrellas!
