August 23, 2023 | CLIMBING
PEDRAFORCA. CLIMBING IN THE ENCHANTED MOUNTAIN
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
The Pollegó Superior (2,506 meters) is the highest peak of the Pedraforca massif, located in the Berguedà region, between the villages of Gósol and Saldes. Over the years, Pedraforca has been the scene of legendary climbs, both on rock and ice, although you can also reach the summit by walking. On foot, there are two classic paths: one climbs a long, vertical, and challenging scree slope, which is accessed a few kilometers after leaving the Lluís Estasen Refuge, located in a beautiful meadow at 1,675 meters above sea level. The other path goes up the Canal del Verdet, a vertical and demanding route, where you even have to use your hands to progress at times.
If you have climbing knowledge and want to enjoy a high-mountain atmosphere in every sense, the most elegant way to reach some of the highest points of Pedraforca is by climbing.
The history of climbing on the Pedraforca massif began with Lluís Estasen, Josep Puntas, Jofre Vila, and Josep Rovira, who, after several attempts on June 30, 1928, managed to establish an intelligent route along the north face of the mountain, eventually reaching the Calderer summit.
The "Vía Estasen", the name of the route, is an itinerary of about 600 meters, with difficulties of up to IV+. The route is sparsely equipped, and despite what the guide may suggest, you need to know how to navigate the wall to always follow the most logical path. The atmosphere is wild and alpine, making the activity a day of classic climbing in capital letters.
If you want to know more about the history of the first ascent of the north face of Pedraforca, you can watch the documentary "L’altra cara de la forca" (2008), a historical reenactment of the climb by Estasen, Vila, and Rovira. Here's the link for the documentary.
Although without a doubt the "Vía Estasen" is the best-known climbing route on Pedraforca, there are many other options on the massif to enjoy some of the best limestone rock in the entire Iberian Peninsula.
Also on the north face, one alternative to the "Vía Estasen" during the warmer months is "Homedes" (430m V+/AO). This route leads to the summit of Gat, a characteristic peak known by that name because it resembles a cat.
The first ascent of "Homedes" dates back to the year when Francesc Homedes, Bernard Boixeda, and Ramon Albareda achieved it on September 8. The route is semi-equipped, and in addition to several quickdraws, a full set of aliens, friends up to #3, and some nuts are needed. The difficulty is consistently around IV+, with occasional passages of V/V+.
To descend from the Gat summit, we'll first do a rappel, which will leave us on the ever-present scree slope, the same way down if we climbed the "Vía Estasen".
Often, we think that to enjoy the high mountains, we must travel to the Pyrenees, Alps, or Dolomites, but we forget about other must-visit places. The Pedraforca massif is one of them. A mountain with a summit at 2,506 meters above sea level, breathtaking views, and an exceptional alpine atmosphere. Everyone should climb Pedraforca at least once in their life.
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(Translated by Google) I have done the course to learn to climb first and I have loved it. I have acquired a lot of autonomy thanks to Santi, who is very nice and you can tell he knows a lot. He is very professional and gives a lot of security. Thank you very much!!!
(Original) He hecho el curso para aprender a escalar de primera y me ha encantado. He adquirido muchísima autonomia gracias a Santi, que es muy majo y se le nota que sabe muchísimo. Es muy profesional y da mucha seguridad. Muchas gracias!!!
(Translated by Google) Spectacular day, incredible treatment! Very happy with the experience and everything I learned. Thank you Santi and see you next time!
(Original) Dia espectacular, tracte increïble! Molt contenta de l'experiència i de tot el que he aprés. Mil gràcies Santi i fins la pròxima!
I organised a 4hr climbing session in Siurana for 10 children (mostly aged 8-9) and Santi was super easy to communicate with and organise everything remotely. He arranged 2 guides, all the equipment, safe briefing and everything you would need for a half day of fun climbing. The kids really enjoyed themselves and learnt so much along the way. Some were beginners, others had climbed before and the guides were very helpful and supportive. I highly recommend Southclimb and we can’t wait to go climbing with them again.
(Translated by Google) I did an initiation course with Santi and it was amazing, I learned a lot and I had a great time, super nice at all times and above all very concerned about safety. As soon as I can I will sign up for more activities! I highly recommend it!!!
(Original) Hice un curso de iniciación con Santi y fue una pasada, aprendí un montón y me lo pasé genial, super agradable en todo momento y sobretodo muy preocupado por la seguridad. En cuanto pueda me apuntaré a más actividades! Lo recomiendo a tope!!!
(Translated by Google) Great experience! A spectacular treatment, they have adapted perfectly to my schedules and needs. It has been two days of the course where I have learned a lot, I have felt safe at all times, they have helped me with the necessary material and most importantly I have had a great time! Thank you Santi for your quick response and organization and special mention to Mariano who is a guide of 10! I will definitely contact them again to do the long track course!
(Original) Experiencia genial! Un trato espectacular, se han adaptado perfectamente a mis horarios y necesidades. Han sido dos dias de curso donde he aprendido muchísimo, me he sentido seguro en todo momento, me han ayudado con el material necesario y lo más importante me lo he pasado genial! Gracias Santi por su rápida respuesta y organización y especial mención a Mariano que es un guía de 10! Sin duda volveré a contactar con ellos para hacer el curso de vía larga!
(Translated by Google) We did the Sport Climbing course with Mariano, between Montserrat and Gelida. The course was very interesting, Mariano's treatment was great. Not only did he teach us the necessary maneuvers, but he gave us an extra dose of motivation to keep climbing and learning.
(Original) Vam fer el curs d'Escalada Esportiva amb en Mariano, entre Montserrat i Gelida. El curs va ser molt interessant, el tracte d'en Mariano ha estat genial. No només ens va ensenyar les maniobres necessàries, sinó que ens va donar una dosi extra de motivació per seguir escalant i aprenent.
I can’t say enough good things about my experience with SouthClimb. Let’s begin with how gorgeous Siurana was! Our guide Santi found an area and climbing routes that were fun and perfectly suited for the grades that myself and the other girl in our group climb. There were specific skills I wanted to work on (cleaning the anchor) and Santi climbed up the route next to one I climbed so that we could work through the process together in a way that was simple, clear, and made me feel safe. I HIGHLY recommend a tour with SouthClimb whether you’re very experienced and want a challenge or it’s your first day on the rock. Don’t hesitate to let your guide know if you have specific goals in mind, because they’re very kind and enthusiastic about helping you learn and grow in the sport. It was a gorgeous day and I am eager to spend more time with SouthClimb! A massive thanks to Santi!
(Translated by Google) We have spent an incredible weekend. Santi is very attentive, super good vibes and makes you feel safe at all times. It also gives enough freedom so that you have the confidence in yourself to move forward. He is very fond of him, you can tell he enjoys his work :) We have been wanting more!
(Original) Hemos pasado un fin de semana increíble. Santi es muy atento, super buen rollo y te hace sentir seguro en todo momento. También da la libertad suficiente para que tengas confianza en ti mismo para avanzar. Le pone mucho cariño, se nota que disfruta con su trabajo :) Nos hemos quedado con ganas de más!
(Translated by Google) I did a climbing baptism with them. Both the place where we went, the Mussara, the equipment provided and the attention of the monitors was excellent.
(Original) Hice un bautizo de escalada con ellos. Tanto el sitio a donde fuimos, la Mussara, el equipo facilitado y la atención de los monitores fue excelente.
(Translated by Google) Southclimb, experts with more than 20 years of climbing behind them. Very friendly people and super attentive to your needs (baptisms, initiation to climbing + material, development of technique in different degrees ...). Top!!!
(Original) Southclimb, expertos con más 20 años a la espalda escalando. Gente muy amable y super atentos a tus necesidadaes ( bautizos, iniciación a la escalada + material, desarrollo de técnica en diferentes grados ... ). Top!!!
