August 23, 2023 | CLIMBING
PEDRAFORCA. CLIMBING IN THE ENCHANTED MOUNTAIN
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
The Pollegó Superior (2,506 meters) is the highest peak of the Pedraforca massif, located in the Berguedà region, between the villages of Gósol and Saldes. Over the years, Pedraforca has been the scene of legendary climbs, both on rock and ice, although you can also reach the summit by walking. On foot, there are two classic paths: one climbs a long, vertical, and challenging scree slope, which is accessed a few kilometers after leaving the Lluís Estasen Refuge, located in a beautiful meadow at 1,675 meters above sea level. The other path goes up the Canal del Verdet, a vertical and demanding route, where you even have to use your hands to progress at times.
If you have climbing knowledge and want to enjoy a high-mountain atmosphere in every sense, the most elegant way to reach some of the highest points of Pedraforca is by climbing.
The history of climbing on the Pedraforca massif began with Lluís Estasen, Josep Puntas, Jofre Vila, and Josep Rovira, who, after several attempts on June 30, 1928, managed to establish an intelligent route along the north face of the mountain, eventually reaching the Calderer summit.
The "Vía Estasen", the name of the route, is an itinerary of about 600 meters, with difficulties of up to IV+. The route is sparsely equipped, and despite what the guide may suggest, you need to know how to navigate the wall to always follow the most logical path. The atmosphere is wild and alpine, making the activity a day of classic climbing in capital letters.
If you want to know more about the history of the first ascent of the north face of Pedraforca, you can watch the documentary "L’altra cara de la forca" (2008), a historical reenactment of the climb by Estasen, Vila, and Rovira. Here's the link for the documentary.
Although without a doubt the "Vía Estasen" is the best-known climbing route on Pedraforca, there are many other options on the massif to enjoy some of the best limestone rock in the entire Iberian Peninsula.
Also on the north face, one alternative to the "Vía Estasen" during the warmer months is "Homedes" (430m V+/AO). This route leads to the summit of Gat, a characteristic peak known by that name because it resembles a cat.
The first ascent of "Homedes" dates back to the year when Francesc Homedes, Bernard Boixeda, and Ramon Albareda achieved it on September 8. The route is semi-equipped, and in addition to several quickdraws, a full set of aliens, friends up to #3, and some nuts are needed. The difficulty is consistently around IV+, with occasional passages of V/V+.
To descend from the Gat summit, we'll first do a rappel, which will leave us on the ever-present scree slope, the same way down if we climbed the "Vía Estasen".
Often, we think that to enjoy the high mountains, we must travel to the Pyrenees, Alps, or Dolomites, but we forget about other must-visit places. The Pedraforca massif is one of them. A mountain with a summit at 2,506 meters above sea level, breathtaking views, and an exceptional alpine atmosphere. Everyone should climb Pedraforca at least once in their life.
What are the names of the best climbers in the world? Alex Lowe, considered one of the greatest mountaineers in history, who tragically died in September 1999 due to an avalanche on Shisha Pangma (8,027 meters), said: "The best climber in the world is the one who has the most fun."
LEARN MOREWadi Rum is undoubtedly a place we will return to. It has captivated us. Adventure climbing on good rock with extraordinary cracks.
LEARN MOREYou can contact us via email at [email protected] or by phone to (+34) 645 432 307, or by filling up the contact form in the following link.
(Translated by Google) Climbing experience highly recommended in a safe environment. Very professional and good treatment
(Original) Experiencia de escalada muy recomendable en un entorno seguro. Muy profesionales y buen trato
(Translated by Google) Totally recommended! A great experience at the hands of Santi, very professional and friendly. We will definitely see each other again soon. 🤘🏿
(Original) Totalmente recomendable! Una experiencia buenísima de la mano de Santi, muy profesional y simpático. Sin duda nos volveremos a ver pronto. 🤘🏿
(Translated by Google) A crack as a professional and as a person. We did the long track course and we managed to be self-sufficient to do one and it motivated us to do more!! See you in the next course 😋
(Original) Un crack como profesional y como persona. Hicimos el curso de vía larga y conseguimos ser autosuficientes para hacer una y nos motivo para hacer más!! Nos vemos en el siguiente curso 😋
(Translated by Google) In August I climbed two long routes in the Pyrenees with Santi, "Tanger" in Collegats and the next day "El Rap del Niño" in Cavallers. A fantastic experience and the best guide to get back to climbing after a break of almost a year due to injury. 100% recommended :)
(Original) En agosto escalé con Santi dos vías largas en el Pirineo, "Tanger" en Collegats y al día siguiente "El Rap del Niño" en Cavallers. Una experiencia fantástica y el mejor guía para volver a escalar después de un parón de casi un año debido a una lesión. 100% recomendado :)
(Translated by Google) Perfect to start climbing. Totally recommended.
(Original) Perfecto para iniciarse en la escalada. Totalmente recomendable.
(Translated by Google) I highly recommend all the courses offered by Southclimb. Santiago is an extremely competent, professional, and fun instructor. The long distance course is an essential course for those who want to evolve in the world of climbing and Southclimb has provided me with this knowledge in a clear, objective and experience-based way. I will certainly take more courses! Thank you Santiago.
(Original) Recomiendo muchísimo todos los cursos ofrecidos por Southclimb. Santiago es un instructor extremadamente competente, profesional y divertido. El curso de larga distancia es un curso esencial para aquellos que desean evolucionar en el mundo de la escalada y Southclimb me ha proporcionado este conocimiento de una manera clara, objetiva y basada en la experiencia. Ciertamente tomaré más cursos! Gracias, Santiago.
(Translated by Google) Always a fantastic day, the various outings we have done with Santi we have had a great time. Great professional, learning and fun guaranteed. Patience and great motivation for children and adults! 100% recommended. We will repeat!
(Original) Día fantástico siempre, las varias salidas que hemos hecho con Santi lo hemos pasado genial. Gran profesional, aprendizaje y diversión asegurados. Paciencia y gran motivación para niños y mayores! Recomendable 100%. Repetiremos!
(Translated by Google) Very nice. Punctual and also aware of you at all times. I will repeat
(Original) Muy agradables. Puntuales y además pendientes de ti en todo momento. Repetiré
(Translated by Google) Super experience! We have spent a fantastic morning and very comfortable with Santi. Without having any experience it has been very profitable and fun, we have loved it. Great Santi, thank you very much!! A pleasure to have shared this moment with you! Just great!! Highly recommended!!
(Original) Súper experiencia! Hemos pasado una mañana fantástica y muy a gusto con Santi. Sin tener nada de experiencia ha sido muy provechoso y divertido, nos ha encantado. Gran Santi, muchas gracias!! Un placer haber compartido este momento contigo! Simplemente Genial!! Muy recomendable!!
I joined the 2days-course of Sport Climbing in Siurana and Arboli. Very comprehensive learning - at the end you will be able to rock climb in complete autonomy. Super recommended!
