August 23, 2023 | CLIMBING
PEDRAFORCA. CLIMBING IN THE ENCHANTED MOUNTAIN
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
The Pollegó Superior (2,506 meters) is the highest peak of the Pedraforca massif, located in the Berguedà region, between the villages of Gósol and Saldes. Over the years, Pedraforca has been the scene of legendary climbs, both on rock and ice, although you can also reach the summit by walking. On foot, there are two classic paths: one climbs a long, vertical, and challenging scree slope, which is accessed a few kilometers after leaving the Lluís Estasen Refuge, located in a beautiful meadow at 1,675 meters above sea level. The other path goes up the Canal del Verdet, a vertical and demanding route, where you even have to use your hands to progress at times.
If you have climbing knowledge and want to enjoy a high-mountain atmosphere in every sense, the most elegant way to reach some of the highest points of Pedraforca is by climbing.
The history of climbing on the Pedraforca massif began with Lluís Estasen, Josep Puntas, Jofre Vila, and Josep Rovira, who, after several attempts on June 30, 1928, managed to establish an intelligent route along the north face of the mountain, eventually reaching the Calderer summit.
The "Vía Estasen", the name of the route, is an itinerary of about 600 meters, with difficulties of up to IV+. The route is sparsely equipped, and despite what the guide may suggest, you need to know how to navigate the wall to always follow the most logical path. The atmosphere is wild and alpine, making the activity a day of classic climbing in capital letters.
If you want to know more about the history of the first ascent of the north face of Pedraforca, you can watch the documentary "L’altra cara de la forca" (2008), a historical reenactment of the climb by Estasen, Vila, and Rovira. Here's the link for the documentary.
Although without a doubt the "Vía Estasen" is the best-known climbing route on Pedraforca, there are many other options on the massif to enjoy some of the best limestone rock in the entire Iberian Peninsula.
Also on the north face, one alternative to the "Vía Estasen" during the warmer months is "Homedes" (430m V+/AO). This route leads to the summit of Gat, a characteristic peak known by that name because it resembles a cat.
The first ascent of "Homedes" dates back to the year when Francesc Homedes, Bernard Boixeda, and Ramon Albareda achieved it on September 8. The route is semi-equipped, and in addition to several quickdraws, a full set of aliens, friends up to #3, and some nuts are needed. The difficulty is consistently around IV+, with occasional passages of V/V+.
To descend from the Gat summit, we'll first do a rappel, which will leave us on the ever-present scree slope, the same way down if we climbed the "Vía Estasen".
Often, we think that to enjoy the high mountains, we must travel to the Pyrenees, Alps, or Dolomites, but we forget about other must-visit places. The Pedraforca massif is one of them. A mountain with a summit at 2,506 meters above sea level, breathtaking views, and an exceptional alpine atmosphere. Everyone should climb Pedraforca at least once in their life.
Tim visited from NYC and we went climbing in the best climbing areas in Catalunya.face
LEARN MORERoute "Delenda Carthago," 180 meters, 6b. It's a modern-style route, generously bolted, and perfect for climbing on a cool autumn morning due to its south-facing orientation.
LEARN MOREYou can contact us via email at [email protected] or by phone to (+34) 645 432 307, or by filling up the contact form in the following link.
(Translated by Google) We made a climbing baptism. We had a great time. Santi is super professional. An entertaining day suitable for all ages. It does not require prior knowledge of climbing.
(Original) Realizamos un bautizo de escalada. Lo pasamos genial. Santi es super profesional. Un dia entretenido apto para todas las edades. No requiere conocimiento previo sobre escalada.
(Translated by Google) My 12 year old son and I (50) did the rock baptism. I have no climbing experience. It was great. Santi very attentive and friendly at all times. It gave us a lot of security. It adapts perfectly to the level of each one and encourages you to improve yourself. Without a doubt, totally recommended! Thank you very much for everything Santa!
(Original) Hicimos el bautizo en roca mi hijo de 12 años y yo (50). Yo sin ninguna experiencia en escalada. Fue genial. Santi muy atento y simpático en todo momento. Nos dio mucha seguridad. Se adapta perfectamente al nivel de cada uno y anima a superarte. Sin duda alguna totalmente recomendable! Muchas gracias por todo Sant!
(Translated by Google) The course has been very good! Thank you very much Santi for transmitting your enthusiasm for climbing and all your explanations. A great experience that I hope to repeat soon! Thank you!
(Original) El curso ha estado muy bien! Muchas gracias Santi por transmitirnos tu entusiasmo por la escalada y todas tus explicaciones. Una gran experiencia que espero poder repetir de aquí poco! Mil gracias!
(Translated by Google) Very good experience with Southclimb. I will repeat!
(Original) Muy buena experiencia con Southclimb. Repetiré!
(Translated by Google) Totally recommended for everyone. Undoubtedly the best way to learn all the theory and technique starting from scratch, safely. Santi you are a crack!! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and entering a new world to discover 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
(Original) Totalmente recomendable para todo el mundo. Sin duda la mejor forma de aprender toda la teoría y técnica partiendo de cero, de forma segura. Santi eres un crack!! Gracias por compartir tus conocimientos y adentrarme en un nuevo mundo por descubrir 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
The most beautiful setting with endless awe inspiring walls and valleys. We’re new to outdoor climbing and our instructor couldn’t have been better. Interesting, enthusiastic, patient and inspiring we felt like we were climbing with a friend who taught us so much and tailored our weekend amazingly to our ability. We felt challenged without feeling completely out of our comfort zone. So fun!
(Translated by Google) A great moment. Santi is always attentive, but with that relaxed energy... the day flows, you learn, the dynamics do not decline and you become happy. What else?
(Original) Un momento buenisimo. Santi siempre atento,pero con esa energia tan relajada...fluye el dia,se aprende,la dinamica no decae y te vuelves contento. Que mas?
(Translated by Google) I did a long route with Santi, a real experience. I had a great time, I felt very safe all the time and I would very much like to repeat it one day with better weather and visibility!
(Original) Hize una vía larga con Santi, una verdadera experiencia. Lo pasé súper bien, me sentí muy en seguridad durante todo el tiempo y me gustaría mucho repetirlo un día con mejor tiempo y visibilidad!
(Translated by Google) We did a climbing baptism yesterday with Santi and we loved it, he was super attentive, kind and always attentive to you, he made us feel safe and enjoy ourselves a lot. I recommend it 100%.
(Original) Hicimos un bautizo de escalada ayer con Santi y nos encantó, el super atento, amable y en todo momento está pendiente de ti, hizo que nos sintiéramos seguros y disfrutáramos mucho. Lo recomiendo 100%.
(Translated by Google) 100% recommendable. I signed up for the climbing fear management course and the experience has been entirely positive. In addition to the psychological part, we also work on more technical and practical aspects that I am sure will help me progress as a climber. Santi is an attentive and kind teacher who transmits experience in each of his actions. A luxury to learn from him.
(Original) 100% recomendable. Me apunté al curso de gestión del miedo en la escalada y la experiencia ha sido del todo positiva. Además de la parte psicológica, también trabajamos aspectos más técnicos y prácticos que estoy seguro me ayudarán a progresar como escalador. Santi es un profesor atento y amable que transmite experiencia en cada una de sus acciones. Un lujo aprender de él.
