August 23, 2023 | CLIMBING
PEDRAFORCA. CLIMBING IN THE ENCHANTED MOUNTAIN
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
The Pollegó Superior (2,506 meters) is the highest peak of the Pedraforca massif, located in the Berguedà region, between the villages of Gósol and Saldes. Over the years, Pedraforca has been the scene of legendary climbs, both on rock and ice, although you can also reach the summit by walking. On foot, there are two classic paths: one climbs a long, vertical, and challenging scree slope, which is accessed a few kilometers after leaving the Lluís Estasen Refuge, located in a beautiful meadow at 1,675 meters above sea level. The other path goes up the Canal del Verdet, a vertical and demanding route, where you even have to use your hands to progress at times.
If you have climbing knowledge and want to enjoy a high-mountain atmosphere in every sense, the most elegant way to reach some of the highest points of Pedraforca is by climbing.
The history of climbing on the Pedraforca massif began with Lluís Estasen, Josep Puntas, Jofre Vila, and Josep Rovira, who, after several attempts on June 30, 1928, managed to establish an intelligent route along the north face of the mountain, eventually reaching the Calderer summit.
The "Vía Estasen", the name of the route, is an itinerary of about 600 meters, with difficulties of up to IV+. The route is sparsely equipped, and despite what the guide may suggest, you need to know how to navigate the wall to always follow the most logical path. The atmosphere is wild and alpine, making the activity a day of classic climbing in capital letters.
If you want to know more about the history of the first ascent of the north face of Pedraforca, you can watch the documentary "L’altra cara de la forca" (2008), a historical reenactment of the climb by Estasen, Vila, and Rovira. Here's the link for the documentary.
Although without a doubt the "Vía Estasen" is the best-known climbing route on Pedraforca, there are many other options on the massif to enjoy some of the best limestone rock in the entire Iberian Peninsula.
Also on the north face, one alternative to the "Vía Estasen" during the warmer months is "Homedes" (430m V+/AO). This route leads to the summit of Gat, a characteristic peak known by that name because it resembles a cat.
The first ascent of "Homedes" dates back to the year when Francesc Homedes, Bernard Boixeda, and Ramon Albareda achieved it on September 8. The route is semi-equipped, and in addition to several quickdraws, a full set of aliens, friends up to #3, and some nuts are needed. The difficulty is consistently around IV+, with occasional passages of V/V+.
To descend from the Gat summit, we'll first do a rappel, which will leave us on the ever-present scree slope, the same way down if we climbed the "Vía Estasen".
Often, we think that to enjoy the high mountains, we must travel to the Pyrenees, Alps, or Dolomites, but we forget about other must-visit places. The Pedraforca massif is one of them. A mountain with a summit at 2,506 meters above sea level, breathtaking views, and an exceptional alpine atmosphere. Everyone should climb Pedraforca at least once in their life.
History, Popular Routes, and Logistics
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(Translated by Google) A great experience with a better professional !!! 100% recommended.
(Original) Una gran experiencia con un mejor profesional!!! 100% recomendado.
(Translated by Google) Great climbing course! Santi knows how to transmit all his experience, he also explains very well and makes the most of each one by transmitting confidence. Great experience!! A great group!
(Original) Gran curso de escalada! Santi sabe transmitir toda su experiencia, además explica muy bien y hace sacar el máximo de cada uno transmitiendo confianza. Gran experiencia!! Un grupo genial!
(Translated by Google) I did the Initiation Course with Santiago, and it was an unforgettable experience! Dynamic, with a lot of practice. The difficult makes it easy! Then, the Tutored Rock Climbs have been really useful, full of emotion, SAFETY (one of the most emphasized topics). SOUTHCLIMB's work IS excellent, you feel personalized, you have fun while you learn, you get answers to doubts and/or questions very quickly. The routes where you will go climbing have wonderful landscapes !! Full of charm! I super-recommend it!!!
(Original) Hice el Curso de Iniciación con Santiago, y fué una experiencia inolvidable!, dinámico, con mucha práctica . Lo difícil lo hace fácil! Luego, las Escaladas Tuteladas en Roca han sido realmente útiles, llenas de emoción, de SEGURIDAD ( una de los tema que más recalca). El trabajo de SOUTHCLIMB ES excelente , lo sientes personalizado, te diviertes al mismo tiempo que aprendes, las respuestas a las dudas y/o preguntas las obtienes muy rápido. Las vías donde irás a escalar tienen paisajes maravillosos !! Llenos de encanto! Lo súper-recomiendo!!!
(Translated by Google) Southclimb, experts with more than 20 years of climbing behind them. Very friendly people and super attentive to your needs (baptisms, initiation to climbing + material, development of technique in different degrees ...). Top!!!
(Original) Southclimb, expertos con más 20 años a la espalda escalando. Gente muy amable y super atentos a tus necesidadaes ( bautizos, iniciación a la escalada + material, desarrollo de técnica en diferentes grados ... ). Top!!!
Excellent day, great spots for climbing, safe and clear instructions. The views were incredible over the valley.
My family was in Barcelona on vacation and wanted to go climbing. Santi picked us and took us on what we all thought was the BEST day of our vacation. He asked what kind of climbing we wanted and found the perfect spot. He offered to take us to a restaurant for lunch that had amazing food, perfect atmosphere and the best sangria you could find. Without a doubt I would highly recommend Santi for any activities you may want to do. He is very attentive and offers a lot of local advice! Thank you Santi!
(Translated by Google) We enjoyed, learned and experienced great days thanks to Santi. 100% recommended!
(Original) Hem gaudit, après i viscut jornades genials gràcies a en Santi. 100% recomanable!
(Translated by Google) An incredible experience. I hope to return on the rock very soon
(Original) Una experiencia increible. Espero volver en la roca muy pronto
(Translated by Google) In August I climbed two long routes in the Pyrenees with Santi, "Tanger" in Collegats and the next day "El Rap del Niño" in Cavallers. A fantastic experience and the best guide to get back to climbing after a break of almost a year due to injury. 100% recommended :)
(Original) En agosto escalé con Santi dos vías largas en el Pirineo, "Tanger" en Collegats y al día siguiente "El Rap del Niño" en Cavallers. Una experiencia fantástica y el mejor guía para volver a escalar después de un parón de casi un año debido a una lesión. 100% recomendado :)
(Translated by Google) Totally recommended! A great experience at the hands of Santi, very professional and friendly. We will definitely see each other again soon. 🤘🏿
(Original) Totalmente recomendable! Una experiencia buenísima de la mano de Santi, muy profesional y simpático. Sin duda nos volveremos a ver pronto. 🤘🏿
