SouthClimb on WhatsApp
August 23, 2023 | CLIMBING

PEDRAFORCA. CLIMBING IN THE ENCHANTED MOUNTAIN

Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.

Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence. Some speak of witches, others of demons, knights, or epic battles. All these stories, combined with the beauty of the massif, with its two distinct peaks separated by the well-known "enforcadura" and its characteristic scree slope, have made Pedraforca a symbol not only for mountaineers, hikers, and climbers, but also for tourists in general.

The Pollegó Superior (2,506 meters) is the highest peak of the Pedraforca massif, located in the Berguedà region, between the villages of Gósol and Saldes. Over the years, Pedraforca has been the scene of legendary climbs, both on rock and ice, although you can also reach the summit by walking. On foot, there are two classic paths: one climbs a long, vertical, and challenging scree slope, which is accessed a few kilometers after leaving the Lluís Estasen Refuge, located in a beautiful meadow at 1,675 meters above sea level. The other path goes up the Canal del Verdet, a vertical and demanding route, where you even have to use your hands to progress at times.

Climbing in Pedraforca. Following the Steps of Lluís Estasen

If you have climbing knowledge and want to enjoy a high-mountain atmosphere in every sense, the most elegant way to reach some of the highest points of Pedraforca is by climbing.

The history of climbing on the Pedraforca massif began with Lluís Estasen, Josep Puntas, Jofre Vila, and Josep Rovira, who, after several attempts on June 30, 1928, managed to establish an intelligent route along the north face of the mountain, eventually reaching the Calderer summit.

Estasen, Pedraforca.
Estasen, Pedraforca.

The "Vía Estasen", the name of the route, is an itinerary of about 600 meters, with difficulties of up to IV+. The route is sparsely equipped, and despite what the guide may suggest, you need to know how to navigate the wall to always follow the most logical path. The atmosphere is wild and alpine, making the activity a day of classic climbing in capital letters.

If you want to know more about the history of the first ascent of the north face of Pedraforca, you can watch the documentary "L’altra cara de la forca" (2008), a historical reenactment of the climb by Estasen, Vila, and Rovira. Here's the link for the documentary.

Other Climbing Routes in Pedraforca: "Homedes" to Gat

Although without a doubt the "Vía Estasen" is the best-known climbing route on Pedraforca, there are many other options on the massif to enjoy some of the best limestone rock in the entire Iberian Peninsula.

Also on the north face, one alternative to the "Vía Estasen" during the warmer months is "Homedes" (430m V+/AO). This route leads to the summit of Gat, a characteristic peak known by that name because it resembles a cat.

Homedes, Pedraforca.
Homedes, Pedraforca.

The first ascent of "Homedes" dates back to the year when Francesc Homedes, Bernard Boixeda, and Ramon Albareda achieved it on September 8. The route is semi-equipped, and in addition to several quickdraws, a full set of aliens, friends up to #3, and some nuts are needed. The difficulty is consistently around IV+, with occasional passages of V/V+.

To descend from the Gat summit, we'll first do a rappel, which will leave us on the ever-present scree slope, the same way down if we climbed the "Vía Estasen".

High Mountain Atmosphere Just a Few Kilometers from the City

Often, we think that to enjoy the high mountains, we must travel to the Pyrenees, Alps, or Dolomites, but we forget about other must-visit places. The Pedraforca massif is one of them. A mountain with a summit at 2,506 meters above sea level, breathtaking views, and an exceptional alpine atmosphere. Everyone should climb Pedraforca at least once in their life.

RELATED POSTS

May 28, 2024 | CLIMBING

BEST CLIMBING COURSE AROUND BARCELONA

How do you choose the perfect climbing course? Here are the essential criteria to make the best decision.

LEARN MORE
September 12, 2024 | CLIMBING

CLIMBING THE NARANJO DE BULNES (PICU URRIELLU)

History, Popular Routes, and Logistics

LEARN MORE

QUESTIONS AND RESERVATIONS

You can contact us via email at info@southclimb.com or by phone to (+34) 645 432 307, or by filling up the contact form in the following link.

Client Reviews
Excellent!

(Translated by Google) A crack as a professional and as a person. We did the long track course and we managed to be self-sufficient to do one and it motivated us to do more!! See you in the next course 😋
(Original) Un crack como profesional y como persona. Hicimos el curso de vía larga y conseguimos ser autosuficientes para hacer una y nos motivo para hacer más!! Nos vemos en el siguiente curso 😋

– Isabel Tejedor
Excellent!

(Translated by Google) Very professional, we had a great day thanks to southclimb with the climbing baptism course, we will surely do the advanced course! This sport is the cane and on top of that it allows you to travel to meet new places and new people! 200% recommended 🙏 Thank you Santi and Sara! 🤘⚡
(Original) Muy profesionals, pasamos un dia genial gracias a southclimb con el curso de bautizo en escalada seguro vamos a hacer el curso avanzado! Este deporte es la caña y encima te permite viajar para conocer nuevos sitios I nueva gente! 200% recomendable 🙏 Gracias Santi y Sara! 🤘⚡

– Pau Alonso Prat
Excellent!

(Translated by Google) Spectacular day, incredible treatment! Very happy with the experience and everything I learned. Thank you Santi and see you next time!
(Original) Dia espectacular, tracte increïble! Molt contenta de l'experiència i de tot el que he aprés. Mil gràcies Santi i fins la pròxima!

– Laia fornieles ortí
Excellent!

(Translated by Google) The Southclimb climbing course taught by Santi has been very motivating, helping me to become aware of the dangers and how to take safety measures to be able to enjoy this sport to the fullest, 👍
(Original) El curso de escalada de Southclimb impartido por Santi ha sido muy motivador, me a ayudando a concienciarme sobre los peligros y como tomar medidas de seguridad para poder disfrutar al máximo de este deporte, 👍

– Anna Bou
Excellent!

(Translated by Google) Excellent experience
(Original)Excelente experiencia

– ima tabb
Excellent!

(Translated by Google) Excellent rock initiation course. Highly recommended!
(Original) Excelente curso de iniciación en roca. Altamente recomendable!

– Gabriel Cárdenas
Excellent!

(Translated by Google) A great morning of climbing with Mariano for Siurana. Small groups of people, which allows you to hang out and feel safe at all times. Highly recommended!
(Original) Un matí genial d’escalada amb el Mariano per Siurana. Grups reduïts de gent, cosa que permet apendre i sentir-te segura en tot moment. Molt recomenable!

– Ivet Gutierrez
Excellent!

(Translated by Google) Thanks to santi for the formation of the long way course. Very complete, practical and satisfactory, I put a 10 !!
(Original) Gracias a santi por la formación de curso de via larga. Muy completo, practico y satisfactorio, pongo un 10 !!

– Adrià Jarque Garcia
Excellent!

Great experience!!! Santi is a professional guide, he has a lot of experience and explains very well, patient. The course was very complete and great as a new experience,..

– Mayan Benda
Excellent!

(Translated by Google) I have done the initiation course and I liked it a lot, because of the content, relaxed atmosphere and at the same time serious in relation to safety. I will surely sign up for more activities!
(Original) He he hecho el curso de iniciación y me ha gustado mucho, por el contenido, clima descontraído y a la vez serio en relación a la seguridad. Seguramente me apuntaré a más actividades!

– Marcello Pagnotta