August 23, 2023 | CLIMBING
PEDRAFORCA. CLIMBING IN THE ENCHANTED MOUNTAIN
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
The Pollegó Superior (2,506 meters) is the highest peak of the Pedraforca massif, located in the Berguedà region, between the villages of Gósol and Saldes. Over the years, Pedraforca has been the scene of legendary climbs, both on rock and ice, although you can also reach the summit by walking. On foot, there are two classic paths: one climbs a long, vertical, and challenging scree slope, which is accessed a few kilometers after leaving the Lluís Estasen Refuge, located in a beautiful meadow at 1,675 meters above sea level. The other path goes up the Canal del Verdet, a vertical and demanding route, where you even have to use your hands to progress at times.
If you have climbing knowledge and want to enjoy a high-mountain atmosphere in every sense, the most elegant way to reach some of the highest points of Pedraforca is by climbing.
The history of climbing on the Pedraforca massif began with Lluís Estasen, Josep Puntas, Jofre Vila, and Josep Rovira, who, after several attempts on June 30, 1928, managed to establish an intelligent route along the north face of the mountain, eventually reaching the Calderer summit.
The "Vía Estasen", the name of the route, is an itinerary of about 600 meters, with difficulties of up to IV+. The route is sparsely equipped, and despite what the guide may suggest, you need to know how to navigate the wall to always follow the most logical path. The atmosphere is wild and alpine, making the activity a day of classic climbing in capital letters.
If you want to know more about the history of the first ascent of the north face of Pedraforca, you can watch the documentary "L’altra cara de la forca" (2008), a historical reenactment of the climb by Estasen, Vila, and Rovira. Here's the link for the documentary.
Although without a doubt the "Vía Estasen" is the best-known climbing route on Pedraforca, there are many other options on the massif to enjoy some of the best limestone rock in the entire Iberian Peninsula.
Also on the north face, one alternative to the "Vía Estasen" during the warmer months is "Homedes" (430m V+/AO). This route leads to the summit of Gat, a characteristic peak known by that name because it resembles a cat.
The first ascent of "Homedes" dates back to the year when Francesc Homedes, Bernard Boixeda, and Ramon Albareda achieved it on September 8. The route is semi-equipped, and in addition to several quickdraws, a full set of aliens, friends up to #3, and some nuts are needed. The difficulty is consistently around IV+, with occasional passages of V/V+.
To descend from the Gat summit, we'll first do a rappel, which will leave us on the ever-present scree slope, the same way down if we climbed the "Vía Estasen".
Often, we think that to enjoy the high mountains, we must travel to the Pyrenees, Alps, or Dolomites, but we forget about other must-visit places. The Pedraforca massif is one of them. A mountain with a summit at 2,506 meters above sea level, breathtaking views, and an exceptional alpine atmosphere. Everyone should climb Pedraforca at least once in their life.
Wadi Rum is undoubtedly a place we will return to. It has captivated us. Adventure climbing on good rock with extraordinary cracks.
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Everything was perfect. Santi is a very experienced climber and an amazing teacher. we enjoyed alot with my friends and can’t wait to do it again.
(Translated by Google) A great climbing day!
(Original)Un dia d'escalada genial!
We had the most awesome morning of climbing this morning. Thanks so much Santi!!
(Translated by Google) Incredible climbing baptism!! It has been a great experience from start to finish. We have enjoyed, laughed and, above all, learned a lot! Thank you Santi for this great morning and for the confidence and security you give!!! We will repeat without a doubt ☺️
(Original) Bautizo de escalada increíble!! Ha sido una grandísima experiencia de principio a fin. Hemos disfrutado, reído y, sobretodo, aprendido muchísimo!! Gracias Santi por esta estupenda mañana y por la confianza y seguridad que das!!! Repetiremos sin duda ☺️
We had an amazing first experience thanks to Southclimb. Santi was extremely kind, helpful and attentive - he's a super friendly and dedicated instructor. We will come again and we will definitely call him back and, of course, we would recommend his services to anybody who is looking for good vibes while learning and having fun.
(Translated by Google) Brutal fear management course! Highly recommended to have strategies to deal with it! Some cracks Santi and Sol!!
(Original) Brutal el curso de gestión del miedo! Muy recomendable para tener estrategias para afrontarlo! Unos cracks Santi y Sol!!
(Translated by Google) Very good experience with Southclimb. I will repeat!
(Original) Muy buena experiencia con Southclimb. Repetiré!
(Translated by Google) We did the initiation course with Santi and he was super useful to get in touch with rock climbing and have all the security measures. The routes that we did were very cool and Santi is a very nice and professional person. Now for the second course!!!
(Original) Hicimos el curso de iniciación con Santi y fue super útil para entrar en contacto con la escalada en roca y tener todas las medidas de seguridad. Las vías que hicimls fueron muy chulas y Santi es una persona muy agradable y profesional. ¡¡¡Ahora a por el segundo curso!!!
(Translated by Google) I did the Initiation Course with Santiago, and it was an unforgettable experience! Dynamic, with a lot of practice. The difficult makes it easy! Then, the Tutored Rock Climbs have been really useful, full of emotion, SAFETY (one of the most emphasized topics). SOUTHCLIMB's work IS excellent, you feel personalized, you have fun while you learn, you get answers to doubts and/or questions very quickly. The routes where you will go climbing have wonderful landscapes !! Full of charm! I super-recommend it!!!
(Original) Hice el Curso de Iniciación con Santiago, y fué una experiencia inolvidable!, dinámico, con mucha práctica . Lo difícil lo hace fácil! Luego, las Escaladas Tuteladas en Roca han sido realmente útiles, llenas de emoción, de SEGURIDAD ( una de los tema que más recalca). El trabajo de SOUTHCLIMB ES excelente , lo sientes personalizado, te diviertes al mismo tiempo que aprendes, las respuestas a las dudas y/o preguntas las obtienes muy rápido. Las vías donde irás a escalar tienen paisajes maravillosos !! Llenos de encanto! Lo súper-recomiendo!!!
(Translated by Google) I've started climbing through @southclimb and it's been a wonderful journey. Thank you Santi for everything you have learned, for motivating us to continue growing, for transmitting values to us, for highlighting our small achievements and for the laughter, which is also important. Apart from being a great professional, a great person.
(Original) Me he iniciado en la escalada a través de @southclimb y está siendo un viaje maravilloso. Gracias Santi por todo lo aprendido, por motivarnos a seguir creciendo, a transmitirnos valores, por realzar nuestros pequeños logros y por las risas, que también son importantes. A parte de gran profesional, una gran persona.
