August 23, 2023 | CLIMBING
PEDRAFORCA. CLIMBING IN THE ENCHANTED MOUNTAIN
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
The Pollegó Superior (2,506 meters) is the highest peak of the Pedraforca massif, located in the Berguedà region, between the villages of Gósol and Saldes. Over the years, Pedraforca has been the scene of legendary climbs, both on rock and ice, although you can also reach the summit by walking. On foot, there are two classic paths: one climbs a long, vertical, and challenging scree slope, which is accessed a few kilometers after leaving the Lluís Estasen Refuge, located in a beautiful meadow at 1,675 meters above sea level. The other path goes up the Canal del Verdet, a vertical and demanding route, where you even have to use your hands to progress at times.
If you have climbing knowledge and want to enjoy a high-mountain atmosphere in every sense, the most elegant way to reach some of the highest points of Pedraforca is by climbing.
The history of climbing on the Pedraforca massif began with Lluís Estasen, Josep Puntas, Jofre Vila, and Josep Rovira, who, after several attempts on June 30, 1928, managed to establish an intelligent route along the north face of the mountain, eventually reaching the Calderer summit.
The "Vía Estasen", the name of the route, is an itinerary of about 600 meters, with difficulties of up to IV+. The route is sparsely equipped, and despite what the guide may suggest, you need to know how to navigate the wall to always follow the most logical path. The atmosphere is wild and alpine, making the activity a day of classic climbing in capital letters.
If you want to know more about the history of the first ascent of the north face of Pedraforca, you can watch the documentary "L’altra cara de la forca" (2008), a historical reenactment of the climb by Estasen, Vila, and Rovira. Here's the link for the documentary.
Although without a doubt the "Vía Estasen" is the best-known climbing route on Pedraforca, there are many other options on the massif to enjoy some of the best limestone rock in the entire Iberian Peninsula.
Also on the north face, one alternative to the "Vía Estasen" during the warmer months is "Homedes" (430m V+/AO). This route leads to the summit of Gat, a characteristic peak known by that name because it resembles a cat.
The first ascent of "Homedes" dates back to the year when Francesc Homedes, Bernard Boixeda, and Ramon Albareda achieved it on September 8. The route is semi-equipped, and in addition to several quickdraws, a full set of aliens, friends up to #3, and some nuts are needed. The difficulty is consistently around IV+, with occasional passages of V/V+.
To descend from the Gat summit, we'll first do a rappel, which will leave us on the ever-present scree slope, the same way down if we climbed the "Vía Estasen".
Often, we think that to enjoy the high mountains, we must travel to the Pyrenees, Alps, or Dolomites, but we forget about other must-visit places. The Pedraforca massif is one of them. A mountain with a summit at 2,506 meters above sea level, breathtaking views, and an exceptional alpine atmosphere. Everyone should climb Pedraforca at least once in their life.
A selection of the best spots to climb during winter in Siurana.
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(Translated by Google) A unique experience next to a great professional. The fear management course makes you spend a weekend connecting with yourself, nature, you meet new crazy companions... and always all the exercises safely next to a very close psychologist. For me, an experience of 10, where (regardless of the level you have) it is useful to stop grabbing the rock with your teeth and enjoy the fluidity and the fall, since it is part of climbing.
(Original) Una experiencia única al lado de un gran profesional. El curso de gestión del miedo te hace pasar un fin de semana de conexión contigo, la naturaleza, conoces nuevos compañeros de locuras… y siempre todos los ejercicios de forma segura al lado de una psicologa muy cercana. Para mi, una experiencia de 10, donde (tengas el nivel que tengas) es útil para dejar de cogerte a la roca con los dientes y disfrutar de la fluidez y de la caída, ya que forma parte de la escalada.
(Translated by Google) great experience in the long way course, a weekend full of laughter and learning to remember with our instructor santi, a true professional and a better person, we will repeat more training with southclimb !!!
(Original) genial experiencia en el curso de via larga, un fin de semana lleno de risas y aprendizaje para recordar con nuestro instructor santi, todo un profesional y mejor persona, repetiremos mas formaciones con southclimb!!!
(Translated by Google) Perfect to start climbing. Totally recommended.
(Original) Perfecto para iniciarse en la escalada. Totalmente recomendable.
Just finished the 2-day multi pitch course. Excellent experience with our coach Santi, who is a professional and very experienced rock climber and alpinist.
We were taught all the techniques and logics to complete a multi pitch route in the mountains (the second day in Montserrat is amazing!).
We also had many nice small talks about risk management, how to start climbing multi pitch for beginners, etc.. Very nice people and vibe here ;)
(Translated by Google) I did a climbing baptism with them. Both the place where we went, the Mussara, the equipment provided and the attention of the monitors was excellent.
(Original) Hice un bautizo de escalada con ellos. Tanto el sitio a donde fuimos, la Mussara, el equipo facilitado y la atención de los monitores fue excelente.
(Translated by Google) Cool!!! We will repeat for sure!!!
(Original)Genial!!! Repetiremos fijo!!!
Santi is the best climbing guide you can imagine. As a reference, we two are 6a-7a climbers, but we wanted a local guide to help maximize efficiency in a foreign area. He was highly recommended to us by a friend who Santi guided a few months back, and he was as wonderful as described. He takes his role as Guide seriously and comprehensively, from helping you plan ideas for areas to concentrate on, considerations of weather and season, logistics for where to stay and how to get there (he picked us up one day, and we met him in our car another), as well as making himself available to help with any other questions or needs for the trip as a whole (not just the climbing part). Our long chain of detailed texts show how dedicated and sincere he is in wanting to help plan the best trip possible for you. This was highly unique, unexpected, above and beyond, and much appreciated. Before you've even met, he treats you more like a friend coming to visit Spain than a client that he is just doing business with, and that warmth goes a long way and sets him apart from most any other guide I've experienced (i've had great guides in my life, so this just reinforces Santi's particularly special character). Like I really felt like we were friends, and still feel like we are, as he reaches out and keeps in touch still and I really appreciate that relationship. Humanity, sincerity, and kindness in business--what a crazy (wonderful) concept! As a climbing guide specifically: he is consummately professional, impressively knowledgable and safe, as well as comfortingly sensitive to your climbing abilities and needs, and tailors each day with climbs that are perfect for you--if you want to be comfortable or if you want a little/big challenge, if you want to experience highlights of an area by switching up crags in the same day. He knows the areas so well and of course knows how to choose the walls that are in the shade or in the sun for whatever time of day or season you are climbing. There is so much variety and fun for either multi or single pitch too. In addition, when we were all climbed out for the day, he took the opportunity to show us the beauty of the local areas, playing also a photographer and travel guide. He also went home to let us borrow his guide book to other areas that we were headed to later, and kept in touch to make sure the rest of our trip went smoothly. So nice! Here is a person who treats his job as a climbing guide and ambassador for the area with such deep consideration and earnestness, and who treats his role as a human being with exceptional kindness and faith. We are so grateful that he came into our lives as a climbing guide and as a friend. Thank you Santi for being you, and please everyone call him now for any guiding adventures (he travels to guide too!) Also, his rates are so fair and reasonable. And you will be so happy if he is available to take you on an adventure with him! Cheers!
(Translated by Google) Spectacular day, incredible treatment! Very happy with the experience and everything I learned. Thank you Santi and see you next time!
(Original) Dia espectacular, tracte increïble! Molt contenta de l'experiència i de tot el que he aprés. Mil gràcies Santi i fins la pròxima!
(Translated by Google) I did a ladder course to learn to go first and secure a first. Essential, super useful and practical. I have learned a lot about safety. It has helped me correct "bad vices" that I had and that can put my safety or that of my climbing partner at risk. And Santi, the instructor, a crack! He explains clearly, is patient, and is in everything. I have gained autonomy in climbing. Thank you for your dedication Santi! Recommended course 200%!
(Original) Hice un curso de escalafa para aprender a ir de primera y asegurar a un primero. Esencial, super util y pràctico. He aprendido mucho respecto a seguridad. Me ha ayudado a corregir "malos vicios" que tenia y que pueden poner en riesgo mi seguridad o la de mi compañer@ de escalada. Y Santi, el instructor, un crack! Explica con claridad, es paciente, y està en todo. He ganado en autonomia en la escalada. Gracias por tu dedicación Santi! Curso ecomendable 200%!
(Translated by Google) A very good experience! The truth is that climbing with Santi I learned many things and had even more fun. The explanations were very practical and useful. I wanted to repeat the experience and continue learning. Thank you!
(Original) ¡Una experiència muy buena! La verdad es que escalando con Santi aprendí muchas cosas y me divertí aún más. Las explicaciones fueron muy prácticas e útiles. Me quedé con ganas de repetir la experiencia y seguir aprendiendo. ¡Gracias!
