August 23, 2023 | CLIMBING
PEDRAFORCA. CLIMBING IN THE ENCHANTED MOUNTAIN
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
The Pollegó Superior (2,506 meters) is the highest peak of the Pedraforca massif, located in the Berguedà region, between the villages of Gósol and Saldes. Over the years, Pedraforca has been the scene of legendary climbs, both on rock and ice, although you can also reach the summit by walking. On foot, there are two classic paths: one climbs a long, vertical, and challenging scree slope, which is accessed a few kilometers after leaving the Lluís Estasen Refuge, located in a beautiful meadow at 1,675 meters above sea level. The other path goes up the Canal del Verdet, a vertical and demanding route, where you even have to use your hands to progress at times.
If you have climbing knowledge and want to enjoy a high-mountain atmosphere in every sense, the most elegant way to reach some of the highest points of Pedraforca is by climbing.
The history of climbing on the Pedraforca massif began with Lluís Estasen, Josep Puntas, Jofre Vila, and Josep Rovira, who, after several attempts on June 30, 1928, managed to establish an intelligent route along the north face of the mountain, eventually reaching the Calderer summit.
The "Vía Estasen", the name of the route, is an itinerary of about 600 meters, with difficulties of up to IV+. The route is sparsely equipped, and despite what the guide may suggest, you need to know how to navigate the wall to always follow the most logical path. The atmosphere is wild and alpine, making the activity a day of classic climbing in capital letters.
If you want to know more about the history of the first ascent of the north face of Pedraforca, you can watch the documentary "L’altra cara de la forca" (2008), a historical reenactment of the climb by Estasen, Vila, and Rovira. Here's the link for the documentary.
Although without a doubt the "Vía Estasen" is the best-known climbing route on Pedraforca, there are many other options on the massif to enjoy some of the best limestone rock in the entire Iberian Peninsula.
Also on the north face, one alternative to the "Vía Estasen" during the warmer months is "Homedes" (430m V+/AO). This route leads to the summit of Gat, a characteristic peak known by that name because it resembles a cat.
The first ascent of "Homedes" dates back to the year when Francesc Homedes, Bernard Boixeda, and Ramon Albareda achieved it on September 8. The route is semi-equipped, and in addition to several quickdraws, a full set of aliens, friends up to #3, and some nuts are needed. The difficulty is consistently around IV+, with occasional passages of V/V+.
To descend from the Gat summit, we'll first do a rappel, which will leave us on the ever-present scree slope, the same way down if we climbed the "Vía Estasen".
Often, we think that to enjoy the high mountains, we must travel to the Pyrenees, Alps, or Dolomites, but we forget about other must-visit places. The Pedraforca massif is one of them. A mountain with a summit at 2,506 meters above sea level, breathtaking views, and an exceptional alpine atmosphere. Everyone should climb Pedraforca at least once in their life.
What are the names of the best climbers in the world? Alex Lowe, considered one of the greatest mountaineers in history, who tragically died in September 1999 due to an avalanche on Shisha Pangma (8,027 meters), said: "The best climber in the world is the one who has the most fun."
LEARN MORETim visited from NYC and we went climbing in the best climbing areas in Catalunya.face
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(Translated by Google) A great climbing teacher, a great mountaineer who transmits everything related to mountain activities very well.
(Original) Un grandísimo profesor de escalada, un gran montañero que transmite muy bién todo lo relacionado con las actividades de montaña..
(Translated by Google) Brutal experience! Dynamic, very instructive, great team and very professional monitor.
(Original) Experiencia brutal! Dinamica, muy instructiva, gran equipo y monitor muy profesional.
(Translated by Google) I did the introductory climbing course and the experience was very rewarding. With no knowledge of climbing I felt accompanied and safe at all times. Santi is a great teacher and you can see both his passion and his involvement. Very motivational and understanding. Totally recommended even for people without knowledge or practice.
(Original) Hice el curso de iniciación a la escalada y la experiencia fué muy gratificante. Con nulos conocimientos de escalada me sentí en todo momento acompañado y seguro. Santi es un gran profesor y se le nota tanto la pasión como la implicación. Muy motivacional y comprensivo. Totalmente recomendable hasta para gente sin conocimientos ni práctica.
(Translated by Google) With Santi and SouthClimb, you don't just learn how to do figure eights, how to do the gri-gri, how to be the first... You also learn what it means to be a good climber and especially accompanied by a beautiful person. Lots of love and looking forward to seeing you again soon!! // With Santi and SouthClimb you don't just learn to tie knots, use the gri-gri or go first... You learn what it means to be a good climber and above all accompanied by a beautiful person. Much love and waiting for the reunion soon!!
(Original) Amb el Santi i amb SouthClimb no només aprens a fer vuits, a fer anar el gri-gri, a fer de primer... Si no que aprens el que és ser un bon escalador i sobretot acompanyat d'una persona preciosa. Molt d'amor i amb ganes de retrobar-nos ben aviat!! // Con Santi y con SouthClimb no solo aprendes a hacer nudos, a usar el gri-gri o a ir de primero... Si no que aprendes el que es ser un buen escalador y sobre todo acompañado de una persona preciosa. Mucho amor y esperando el re-encuentro pronto!!
(Translated by Google) We have had an incredible weekend. Santi is very attentive, super good vibes and makes you feel safe at all times. It also gives enough freedom for you to have confidence in yourself to move forward. He puts a lot of love into it, you can tell he enjoys his work :) We are left wanting more!
(Original) Hemos pasado un fin de semana increíble. Santi es muy atento, super buen rollo y te hace sentir seguro en todo momento. También da la libertad suficiente para que tengas confianza en ti mismo para avanzar. Le pone mucho cariño, se nota que disfruta con su trabajo :) Nos hemos quedado con ganas de más!
We had an amazing morning climbing with Santi in Arboli. We were all beginners and Santi was very patient and helpful and adapted everything to our level. 100% recommendable!!
We had an amazing experience with Southclimb. Santi, our guide, was friendly, patient and clear throughout our three days together. He kept things moving at a pace that was ideal for our level of experience, and made sure we were able to cover all the things we were looking for help with. We’re looking forward to coming back in the future for the next steps in our climbing journey. Thanks again Santi!
(Translated by Google) I have done the initiation course and I liked it a lot, because of the content, relaxed atmosphere and at the same time serious in relation to safety. I will surely sign up for more activities!
(Original) He he hecho el curso de iniciación y me ha gustado mucho, por el contenido, clima descontraído y a la vez serio en relación a la seguridad. Seguramente me apuntaré a más actividades!
My family was in Barcelona on vacation and wanted to go climbing. Santi picked us and took us on what we all thought was the BEST day of our vacation. He asked what kind of climbing we wanted and found the perfect spot. He offered to take us to a restaurant for lunch that had amazing food, perfect atmosphere and the best sangria you could find. Without a doubt I would highly recommend Santi for any activities you may want to do. He is very attentive and offers a lot of local advice! Thank you Santi!
(Translated by Google) 100% recommendable. I signed up for the climbing fear management course and the experience has been entirely positive. In addition to the psychological part, we also work on more technical and practical aspects that I am sure will help me progress as a climber. Santi is an attentive and kind teacher who transmits experience in each of his actions. A luxury to learn from him.
(Original) 100% recomendable. Me apunté al curso de gestión del miedo en la escalada y la experiencia ha sido del todo positiva. Además de la parte psicológica, también trabajamos aspectos más técnicos y prácticos que estoy seguro me ayudarán a progresar como escalador. Santi es un profesor atento y amable que transmite experiencia en cada una de sus acciones. Un lujo aprender de él.
