August 23, 2023 | CLIMBING
PEDRAFORCA. CLIMBING IN THE ENCHANTED MOUNTAIN
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
The Pollegó Superior (2,506 meters) is the highest peak of the Pedraforca massif, located in the Berguedà region, between the villages of Gósol and Saldes. Over the years, Pedraforca has been the scene of legendary climbs, both on rock and ice, although you can also reach the summit by walking. On foot, there are two classic paths: one climbs a long, vertical, and challenging scree slope, which is accessed a few kilometers after leaving the Lluís Estasen Refuge, located in a beautiful meadow at 1,675 meters above sea level. The other path goes up the Canal del Verdet, a vertical and demanding route, where you even have to use your hands to progress at times.
If you have climbing knowledge and want to enjoy a high-mountain atmosphere in every sense, the most elegant way to reach some of the highest points of Pedraforca is by climbing.
The history of climbing on the Pedraforca massif began with Lluís Estasen, Josep Puntas, Jofre Vila, and Josep Rovira, who, after several attempts on June 30, 1928, managed to establish an intelligent route along the north face of the mountain, eventually reaching the Calderer summit.
The "Vía Estasen", the name of the route, is an itinerary of about 600 meters, with difficulties of up to IV+. The route is sparsely equipped, and despite what the guide may suggest, you need to know how to navigate the wall to always follow the most logical path. The atmosphere is wild and alpine, making the activity a day of classic climbing in capital letters.
If you want to know more about the history of the first ascent of the north face of Pedraforca, you can watch the documentary "L’altra cara de la forca" (2008), a historical reenactment of the climb by Estasen, Vila, and Rovira. Here's the link for the documentary.
Although without a doubt the "Vía Estasen" is the best-known climbing route on Pedraforca, there are many other options on the massif to enjoy some of the best limestone rock in the entire Iberian Peninsula.
Also on the north face, one alternative to the "Vía Estasen" during the warmer months is "Homedes" (430m V+/AO). This route leads to the summit of Gat, a characteristic peak known by that name because it resembles a cat.
The first ascent of "Homedes" dates back to the year when Francesc Homedes, Bernard Boixeda, and Ramon Albareda achieved it on September 8. The route is semi-equipped, and in addition to several quickdraws, a full set of aliens, friends up to #3, and some nuts are needed. The difficulty is consistently around IV+, with occasional passages of V/V+.
To descend from the Gat summit, we'll first do a rappel, which will leave us on the ever-present scree slope, the same way down if we climbed the "Vía Estasen".
Often, we think that to enjoy the high mountains, we must travel to the Pyrenees, Alps, or Dolomites, but we forget about other must-visit places. The Pedraforca massif is one of them. A mountain with a summit at 2,506 meters above sea level, breathtaking views, and an exceptional alpine atmosphere. Everyone should climb Pedraforca at least once in their life.
Tim visited from NYC and we went climbing in the best climbing areas in Catalunya.face
LEARN MOREA short tale about a climbing trip to the iconic Verdon Gorge.
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(Translated by Google) An incredible professional personally had a fabulous time at the rope climbing baptism totally recommended 🤘🤘🤘 you won't regret it
(Original) Un profesional increíble personalmente lo pase de fábula en el bautizo de escalada en cuerda totalmente recomendable 🤘🤘🤘 no te arrepentirás
(Translated by Google) 100% recommendable. I signed up for the climbing fear management course and the experience has been entirely positive. In addition to the psychological part, we also work on more technical and practical aspects that I am sure will help me progress as a climber. Santi is an attentive and kind teacher who transmits experience in each of his actions. A luxury to learn from him.
(Original) 100% recomendable. Me apunté al curso de gestión del miedo en la escalada y la experiencia ha sido del todo positiva. Además de la parte psicológica, también trabajamos aspectos más técnicos y prácticos que estoy seguro me ayudarán a progresar como escalador. Santi es un profesor atento y amable que transmite experiencia en cada una de sus acciones. Un lujo aprender de él.
(Translated by Google) I did the fear management course and we had a great time while learning a lot. 100% recommendable!
(Original) Hice el curso de gestión del miedo y lo pasamos en grande a la vez que aprendiendo muchísimo. 100% recomendable!
(Translated by Google) I'm super glad I found SouthClimb. It was my first time rock climbing, and even though my teammates were more level than me, Yoel was very patient and helped me a lot. I am sure that in a while I will appreciate all the advice and "good uses" that he gave us. 6 stars!
(Original) Estoy super contento de haber encontrado a SouthClimb. Era mi primera vez escalando en roca, y pese a que mis compañeros tenían más nivel que yo, Yoel fue muy paciente y me ayudó un montón. Estoy seguro de que dentro de un tiempo agradeceré todos los consejos y "buenos usos" que él nos regaló. ¡De 6 estrellas!
(Translated by Google) Climbing course adapted to everyone's level. Intensive learning with a guide, Sara, who has been helping us all the time and setting us challenges. It has been 6 hours but it has flown by. We will repeat for sure!
(Original) Curs d'escalada adaptat al nivell de cadascú. Intensiu d'aprenentatges amb una guia, la Sara, que ha estat tota l'estona ajudant-nos i plantejant-nos reptes. Han estat 6 hores però ha passat volant. Repetirem segur!
Climbing with Santi/Southclimb is a stellar experience with a consummate coach. He’s extremely knowledge, supportive, and able to tailor experiences to your needs. He gets the best climbs and climber out of you. I’ve climbed with him on one-day and weeklong trips. For the longer one, he also puts much care into the full experience - lodging, dining and downtime - all good quality and well orchestrated.
(Translated by Google) Bua the fear management course in very very top climbing. We all left highly motivated and with a lot of tools to continue working. Santi is a person who gives a lot of confidence and transmits absolute tranquility and affection. 100% I will do a course again!
(Original) Bua el curso de gestión del miedo en escalada muy muy top. Nos fuimos todos ultra motivados y con un montón de herramientas para seguir trabajando. Santi es una persona que da muchísima confianza y transmite una tranquilidad y cariño absolutos. 100% volveré a hacer un curso!
(Translated by Google) Santi has accompanied us on this adventure of entering the world of the long way. The course has helped us practice the maneuvers and understand the why of each step and gain confidence! Super pedagogically and with a lot of joy and patience!!! Highly recommended!
(Original) El Santi ens ha acompanyat en aquesta aventura d'endinsar-nos al món de la via llarga. El curs ens ha servit per poder practicar les maniobres i entendre el per què de cada pas i anar agafant confiança! Super pedagògicament i amb molta alegria i paciència!!! Molt recomanable!
(Translated by Google) Southclimb, experts with more than 20 years of climbing behind them. Very friendly people and super attentive to your needs (baptisms, initiation to climbing + material, development of technique in different degrees ...). Top!!!
(Original) Southclimb, expertos con más 20 años a la espalda escalando. Gente muy amable y super atentos a tus necesidadaes ( bautizos, iniciación a la escalada + material, desarrollo de técnica en diferentes grados ... ). Top!!!
My family was in Barcelona on vacation and wanted to go climbing. Santi picked us and took us on what we all thought was the BEST day of our vacation. He asked what kind of climbing we wanted and found the perfect spot. He offered to take us to a restaurant for lunch that had amazing food, perfect atmosphere and the best sangria you could find. Without a doubt I would highly recommend Santi for any activities you may want to do. He is very attentive and offers a lot of local advice! Thank you Santi!
