August 23, 2023 | CLIMBING
PEDRAFORCA. CLIMBING IN THE ENCHANTED MOUNTAIN
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
The Pollegó Superior (2,506 meters) is the highest peak of the Pedraforca massif, located in the Berguedà region, between the villages of Gósol and Saldes. Over the years, Pedraforca has been the scene of legendary climbs, both on rock and ice, although you can also reach the summit by walking. On foot, there are two classic paths: one climbs a long, vertical, and challenging scree slope, which is accessed a few kilometers after leaving the Lluís Estasen Refuge, located in a beautiful meadow at 1,675 meters above sea level. The other path goes up the Canal del Verdet, a vertical and demanding route, where you even have to use your hands to progress at times.
If you have climbing knowledge and want to enjoy a high-mountain atmosphere in every sense, the most elegant way to reach some of the highest points of Pedraforca is by climbing.
The history of climbing on the Pedraforca massif began with Lluís Estasen, Josep Puntas, Jofre Vila, and Josep Rovira, who, after several attempts on June 30, 1928, managed to establish an intelligent route along the north face of the mountain, eventually reaching the Calderer summit.
The "Vía Estasen", the name of the route, is an itinerary of about 600 meters, with difficulties of up to IV+. The route is sparsely equipped, and despite what the guide may suggest, you need to know how to navigate the wall to always follow the most logical path. The atmosphere is wild and alpine, making the activity a day of classic climbing in capital letters.
If you want to know more about the history of the first ascent of the north face of Pedraforca, you can watch the documentary "L’altra cara de la forca" (2008), a historical reenactment of the climb by Estasen, Vila, and Rovira. Here's the link for the documentary.
Although without a doubt the "Vía Estasen" is the best-known climbing route on Pedraforca, there are many other options on the massif to enjoy some of the best limestone rock in the entire Iberian Peninsula.
Also on the north face, one alternative to the "Vía Estasen" during the warmer months is "Homedes" (430m V+/AO). This route leads to the summit of Gat, a characteristic peak known by that name because it resembles a cat.
The first ascent of "Homedes" dates back to the year when Francesc Homedes, Bernard Boixeda, and Ramon Albareda achieved it on September 8. The route is semi-equipped, and in addition to several quickdraws, a full set of aliens, friends up to #3, and some nuts are needed. The difficulty is consistently around IV+, with occasional passages of V/V+.
To descend from the Gat summit, we'll first do a rappel, which will leave us on the ever-present scree slope, the same way down if we climbed the "Vía Estasen".
Often, we think that to enjoy the high mountains, we must travel to the Pyrenees, Alps, or Dolomites, but we forget about other must-visit places. The Pedraforca massif is one of them. A mountain with a summit at 2,506 meters above sea level, breathtaking views, and an exceptional alpine atmosphere. Everyone should climb Pedraforca at least once in their life.
A selection of the best spots to climb during winter in Siurana.
LEARN MOREWhat are the names of the best climbers in the world? Alex Lowe, considered one of the greatest mountaineers in history, who tragically died in September 1999 due to an avalanche on Shisha Pangma (8,027 meters), said: "The best climber in the world is the one who has the most fun."
LEARN MOREYou can contact us via email at [email protected] or by phone to (+34) 645 432 307, or by filling up the contact form in the following link.
(Translated by Google) Highly recommended for people who want to start climbing or want to improve. Excellent and experienced guides, and good atmosphere. You learn and have a good time. What more could you want?
(Original) Muy recomendado para personas que quieran iniciarse en la escalada o quieran mejorar. Guías excelentes y experimentados, y buen ambiente. Aprendes y lo pasas bien. Qué más se puede pedir?
(Translated by Google) I did the long route course with Santi and the experience was excellent, with great emphasis on safety and all the factors to take into account when planning a long route and the necessary manoeuvres. The practice day left us to work and find our way on our own, intervening when necessary and always keeping a watchful eye that everything was done safely. Always with good humor and good treatment, which is not less in situations of nerves and tension. Thank you so much!
(Original) Hice el curso de vía larga con Santi y la experiencia fue excelente, con mucho énfasis en la seguridad y todos las factores a tener en cuenta para planificar una vía larga y las maniobras necesarias. El día de práctica nos dejó trabajar y buscar camino solos, interviniendo cuando era necesario y manteniendo siempre una mirada atenta a que todo esté hecho de manera segura. Siempre con buen humor y buen trato, que no es menor en situaciones de nervios y de tensión. Muchas gracias!
The Via Ferrata was amazing.
* Personal guidance
* High quality pictures
* Very good price
* Guide is good company
* Route has beautiful scenery, very exciting and Santi knows it completely
You do need to bring your own shoes, which may be expected but wasn't mentioned on the website.
(Translated by Google) An unforgettable experience. Santi is unique when it comes to sharing his GREAT knowledge in the world of climbing. In addition, he fully adjusted the session to suit our needs, knowing at every moment when we could give a little more of ourselves. Thank you so much for a great day!
(Original) Una experiencia inolvidable. Santi es único a la hora de compartir su GRAN conocimiento en el mundo de la escalada. Además ajustó la sesión totalmente a la medida de nuestras necesidades, sabiendo a cada momento cuando podíamos dar un poco más de nosotros. Mil gracias por un día genial!
(Translated by Google) Great experience! In addition to good training and security. They are the cane! I recommend it.
(Original) Gran experiencia! Ademas de buena formación y seguridad. Son la caña! Lo recomiendo.
(Translated by Google) Excellent experience
(Original)Excelente experiencia
(Translated by Google) Bua the fear management course in very very top climbing. We all left highly motivated and with a lot of tools to continue working. Santi is a person who gives a lot of confidence and transmits absolute tranquility and affection. 100% I will do a course again!
(Original) Bua el curso de gestión del miedo en escalada muy muy top. Nos fuimos todos ultra motivados y con un montón de herramientas para seguir trabajando. Santi es una persona que da muchísima confianza y transmite una tranquilidad y cariño absolutos. 100% volveré a hacer un curso!
(Translated by Google) Very good experience. Montserrat is beautiful, ideal for all levels. Santi explained it to us superbly, with a lot of patience and humor. Highly recommended
(Original) Molt bona experiència. Montserrat és preciós, ideal per tots els nivells. El Santi ens ho ha explicat superbé, amb momta paciència i humor. Molt recomanable
(Translated by Google) A great experience with a better professional !!! 100% recommended.
(Original) Una gran experiencia con un mejor profesional!!! 100% recomendado.
Just finished the 2-day multi pitch course. Excellent experience with our coach Santi, who is a professional and very experienced rock climber and alpinist.
We were taught all the techniques and logics to complete a multi pitch route in the mountains (the second day in Montserrat is amazing!).
We also had many nice small talks about risk management, how to start climbing multi pitch for beginners, etc.. Very nice people and vibe here ;)
