August 23, 2023 | CLIMBING
PEDRAFORCA. CLIMBING IN THE ENCHANTED MOUNTAIN
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
The Pollegó Superior (2,506 meters) is the highest peak of the Pedraforca massif, located in the Berguedà region, between the villages of Gósol and Saldes. Over the years, Pedraforca has been the scene of legendary climbs, both on rock and ice, although you can also reach the summit by walking. On foot, there are two classic paths: one climbs a long, vertical, and challenging scree slope, which is accessed a few kilometers after leaving the Lluís Estasen Refuge, located in a beautiful meadow at 1,675 meters above sea level. The other path goes up the Canal del Verdet, a vertical and demanding route, where you even have to use your hands to progress at times.
If you have climbing knowledge and want to enjoy a high-mountain atmosphere in every sense, the most elegant way to reach some of the highest points of Pedraforca is by climbing.
The history of climbing on the Pedraforca massif began with Lluís Estasen, Josep Puntas, Jofre Vila, and Josep Rovira, who, after several attempts on June 30, 1928, managed to establish an intelligent route along the north face of the mountain, eventually reaching the Calderer summit.
The "Vía Estasen", the name of the route, is an itinerary of about 600 meters, with difficulties of up to IV+. The route is sparsely equipped, and despite what the guide may suggest, you need to know how to navigate the wall to always follow the most logical path. The atmosphere is wild and alpine, making the activity a day of classic climbing in capital letters.
If you want to know more about the history of the first ascent of the north face of Pedraforca, you can watch the documentary "L’altra cara de la forca" (2008), a historical reenactment of the climb by Estasen, Vila, and Rovira. Here's the link for the documentary.
Although without a doubt the "Vía Estasen" is the best-known climbing route on Pedraforca, there are many other options on the massif to enjoy some of the best limestone rock in the entire Iberian Peninsula.
Also on the north face, one alternative to the "Vía Estasen" during the warmer months is "Homedes" (430m V+/AO). This route leads to the summit of Gat, a characteristic peak known by that name because it resembles a cat.
The first ascent of "Homedes" dates back to the year when Francesc Homedes, Bernard Boixeda, and Ramon Albareda achieved it on September 8. The route is semi-equipped, and in addition to several quickdraws, a full set of aliens, friends up to #3, and some nuts are needed. The difficulty is consistently around IV+, with occasional passages of V/V+.
To descend from the Gat summit, we'll first do a rappel, which will leave us on the ever-present scree slope, the same way down if we climbed the "Vía Estasen".
Often, we think that to enjoy the high mountains, we must travel to the Pyrenees, Alps, or Dolomites, but we forget about other must-visit places. The Pedraforca massif is one of them. A mountain with a summit at 2,506 meters above sea level, breathtaking views, and an exceptional alpine atmosphere. Everyone should climb Pedraforca at least once in their life.
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(Translated by Google) I did a ladder course to learn to go first and secure a first. Essential, super useful and practical. I have learned a lot about safety. It has helped me correct "bad vices" that I had and that can put my safety or that of my climbing partner at risk. And Santi, the instructor, a crack! He explains clearly, is patient, and is in everything. I have gained autonomy in climbing. Thank you for your dedication Santi! Recommended course 200%!
(Original) Hice un curso de escalafa para aprender a ir de primera y asegurar a un primero. Esencial, super util y pràctico. He aprendido mucho respecto a seguridad. Me ha ayudado a corregir "malos vicios" que tenia y que pueden poner en riesgo mi seguridad o la de mi compañer@ de escalada. Y Santi, el instructor, un crack! Explica con claridad, es paciente, y està en todo. He ganado en autonomia en la escalada. Gracias por tu dedicación Santi! Curso ecomendable 200%!
(Translated by Google) Highly recommended, they took us in a perfect environment for climbing, with other options in case it was very crowded, they taught us everything we needed to be able to be autonomous in terms of the most appropriate security techniques, practicing everything from there. first moment: go first, place the tapes well and plate, use the grigri in the safest way, make a meeting also in the safest way, and even fall and dynamization techniques. I am very grateful because they solved all my doubts and even helped me choose material!! Nice day of climbing, good people and a lot of learning! A hug to Santi and Yoel
(Original) Muy recomendable, nos llevaron en un entorno perfecto para escalar, con otras opciones por si estaba muy lleno de gente, nos enseñaron todo lo necesario para poder ser autónomo en lo que se refiere a las técnicas más adecuadas de seguridad, practicándolo todo des de el primer momento: ir de primero, colocar bien las cintaa y chapar, usar el grigri de la forma más segura, hacer una reunión también de la forma más segura, e incluso técnicas de caída y dinamización. Estoy muy agradecida porque resolvieron todas mis dudas e incluso me ayudaron a elegir material!! Día agradable de escalada, buena gente y mucho aprendizaje!! Un abrazo a Santi y Yoel
(Translated by Google) A fantastic experience with a great guide. Time used to the maximum and total safety on the rock!
(Original) Una experiencia fantástica con un guía estupendo. Tiempo aprovechado al máximo y total seguridad en la roca!
(Translated by Google) Great experience from Santi's hand. We did two long routes in Monserrat and Santi was very professional at all times and a wonderful person. 10/10!!
(Original) Buenísima experiencia de la mano de Santi. Hicimos dos rutas largas en Monserrat y Santi fue muy profesional en todo momento y una persona maravillosa. 10/10!!
We had an amazing morning climbing with Santi in Arboli. We were all beginners and Santi was very patient and helpful and adapted everything to our level. 100% recommendable!!
(Translated by Google) A great morning of climbing with Mariano for Siurana. Small groups of people, which allows you to hang out and feel safe at all times. Highly recommended!
(Original) Un matí genial d’escalada amb el Mariano per Siurana. Grups reduïts de gent, cosa que permet apendre i sentir-te segura en tot moment. Molt recomenable!
(Translated by Google) Always a fantastic day, the various outings we have done with Santi we have had a great time. Great professional, learning and fun guaranteed. Patience and great motivation for children and adults! 100% recommended. We will repeat!
(Original) Día fantástico siempre, las varias salidas que hemos hecho con Santi lo hemos pasado genial. Gran profesional, aprendizaje y diversión asegurados. Paciencia y gran motivación para niños y mayores! Recomendable 100%. Repetiremos!
Just finished the 2-day multi pitch course. Excellent experience with our coach Santi, who is a professional and very experienced rock climber and alpinist.
We were taught all the techniques and logics to complete a multi pitch route in the mountains (the second day in Montserrat is amazing!).
We also had many nice small talks about risk management, how to start climbing multi pitch for beginners, etc.. Very nice people and vibe here ;)
(Translated by Google) Great experience! A spectacular treatment, they have adapted perfectly to my schedules and needs. It has been two days of the course where I have learned a lot, I have felt safe at all times, they have helped me with the necessary material and most importantly I have had a great time! Thank you Santi for your quick response and organization and special mention to Mariano who is a guide of 10! I will definitely contact them again to do the long track course!
(Original) Experiencia genial! Un trato espectacular, se han adaptado perfectamente a mis horarios y necesidades. Han sido dos dias de curso donde he aprendido muchísimo, me he sentido seguro en todo momento, me han ayudado con el material necesario y lo más importante me lo he pasado genial! Gracias Santi por su rápida respuesta y organización y especial mención a Mariano que es un guía de 10! Sin duda volveré a contactar con ellos para hacer el curso de vía larga!
Santi is a great guide and a better person. I did the Kalymnos trip with him and I simply could not be more greatful.
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