What are the names of the best climbers in the world? Alex Lowe, considered one of the greatest mountaineers in history, who tragically died in September 1999 due to an avalanche on Shisha Pangma (8,027 meters), said: "The best climber in the world is the one who has the most fun."
Hundreds of thousands of people have now discovered a sport that left the underground scene years ago through their televisions and other mobile devices. Suddenly, almost everyone has heard of Alberto Ginés and Janja Garnbret, the two reigning Olympic champions. Are Alberto and Janja the two best climbers in the world for winning gold at the Olympics?
Climbing is a sport with multiple faces and disciplines. There are no written rules, except in competition climbing. Boulder, sport climbing, artificial climbing, big wall, ice climbing, dry tooling, and even speed climbing – it's all climbing, although each discipline is practiced very differently and the equipment used varies from one discipline to another.
What are the names of the best climbers in the world? Alex Lowe, considered one of the greatest mountaineers in history, who tragically died in September 1999 due to an avalanche on Shisha Pangma (8,027 meters), said:
"The best climber in the world is the one who has the most fun."
Everything is subjective, and categorizing is not advisable, so let's ask ourselves the same question again... Who is the best climber in the world? What is their name?
Before climbing entered the Olympic program, two films also contributed to raising its popularity and reaching the mainstream: "Free Solo" (2018), starring Alex Honnold and winner of the Academy Award for Best Documentary in 2019, and "The Dawn Wall" (2017), featuring Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson as protagonists.
"Free Solo" tells the story of Alex Honnold's free solo ascent of El Capitan via the Freerider route, rated 5.12d (7c+). This climb brought Honnold worldwide recognition and fame. Currently, Alex has 2.2 million followers on Instagram. He is the most followed climber on this social media platform, alongside Jimmy Chin (2.8 million), the director of "Free Solo" together with Elizabeth Chai Vasarhelyi. He surpasses climbers like Tommy Caldwell (824,000), Adam Ondra (744,000), Chris Sharma (580,000), Janja Garnbret (355,000), Emily Harrington (310,000), Daniel Woods (218,000), Margo Hayes (204,000), or Alberto Ginés, who has gained over 100,000 followers since winning the gold medal and now has 185,000 followers. So, is Alex Honnold the best climber in the world for having climbed El Capitan without a rope?
The entire world followed the progression of Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson on The Dawn Wall, on El Capitan. In the United States, their ascent became almost a matter of national importance. On January 14, 2015, they reached the final pitch of The Dawn Wall (900m 5.14d), having climbed all 32 pitches free, after spending 19 days on the wall. For Caldwell, this ascent was the culmination of an intense phase of his life.
The Dawn Wall is considered one of the hardest big wall climbs in the world, with difficulties up to 5.14d (9a), and Tommy began shaping the project in 2007. No one has more free climbs on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley than him. Prior to freeing The Dawn Wall, he had already climbed other routes in the same style, such as Lurking Fear, Dihedral Wall, West Buttress, and Magic Mushroom. The American climber also has first ascents of classic sport routes in the United States, such as Kryptonite 5.14d (9a) and Flex Luthor 5.15a/b (9a+/b), both located in The Fortress of Solitude (Colorado, USA). As of today, Flex Luthor still has no repetitions, despite being attempted by some of the fittest climbers in the United States. Is Tommy Caldwell the best climber in the world?
Adam Ondra is considered by many to be the best climber in the world today. His long list of difficult climbs speaks for itself. It's hard to mention all of the remarkable ascents by the prodigious Czech climber, but we'll focus on those that have made a significant impact in the history of sport climbing: Supercrackinette 9a+, the world's first 9a+ flash ascent in Saint Léger (France); Change 9b+, the world's first proposed 9b+ grade climb in Flatanger (Norway); and Silence 9c, the world's first proposed 9c grade climb, also in Flatanger.
Ondra holds the record for the most climbs between 9a and 9c, and in bouldering, he has completed problems up to 8C+, such as Terranova and Brutal Rider, both located in Moravský kras (Czech Republic). In November 2016, Adam achieved another significant milestone in his career by repeating The Dawn Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley (California, USA) in just eight days.
The Czech climber primarily focuses on sport climbing and also has a competitive side. He has three World Champion titles in lead climbing and one in bouldering. In addition to Ondra, we cannot overlook climbers like Stefano Ghisolfi, Jakob Schubert, and Alex Megos. All three have completed 9b+ grade climbs, and Megos recently made the second proposed 9c grade climb with Bibliographie in Céüse (France). Megos also made history by becoming the first climber to onsight a 9a grade climb, which happened in March 2013 in Siurana. The route was Estado Crítico.
Many climbers would be satisfied in their entire lives with completing just one of Chris Sharma's king lines. During his youth, he balanced bouldering with sport climbing, later fully dedicating himself to the latter. Currently, he combines sport climbing with psicobloc (deep water soloing) and has not abandoned bouldering either.
Chris Sharma left his mark in an era that is perhaps the most significant for the development of global sport climbing. In July 2001, he completed Biographie in Céüse, a route that opened the door to 9a+, a grade that seemed unreachable at the time. The world's first 9b also came from Chris's hands. After more than 100 attempts spread over several years, he completed Jumbo Love 9b in Clark Mountain (Nevada) in September 2008. Five years later, in March 2013, he achieved his first 9b+ with La Dura Dura in Oliana. A month earlier, Adam Ondra had made the first ascent. In the same wall as La Dura Dura, on the Contrafort de Rumbau, lies Le Blond, a possible 9c that Sharma sporadically attempts. It remains an open project, just like Perfecto Mundo 9b+ was in Racó de la Finestra, Margalef, where Chris obsessively tried the route for a long time. However, it was Alex Megos who ultimately made the first ascent in May 2018, followed by Stefano Ghisolfi and Jakob Schubert.
One cannot forget Chris Sharma's expertise in psicobloc (deep water soloing) either. In fact, he popularized this discipline internationally and put the island of Mallorca on the map as the mecca of deep water soloing. Who can forget his dynamic and constant falls into the Mediterranean while attempting Es Pontàs? The story is captured in the classic film King Lines (2008), which coined the term for great routes with Chris Sharma's signature.
In the women's category, we could dedicate entire articles to legendary climbers like Lynn Hill, Catherine Destivelle, or Steph Davis. All of them have achieved groundbreaking activities, transcending gender. Perhaps the most notable achievement was Lynn Hill's first free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan in September 1993. The legacy of these influential climbers has been followed by younger athletes such as Angy Eiter, Laura Rogora, and Julia Chanourdie. These three women have successfully completed routes graded 9b.
Eiter made her mark with La Planta de Shiva in Villanueva del Rosario (Málaga) in October 2017. Are they better climbers than Hill, Destivelle, or Davis for having completed higher grades? Are they the best climbers in the world?
While Emily Harrington, Barbara Zangerl, and Margo Hayes haven't reached the 9b grade, all three have earned a place in the climbing hall of fame. Climbing abilities cannot be solely determined by the grades achieved, as climbing encompasses a wide range of disciplines and styles. Each climber brings unique strengths and accomplishments to the sport, contributing to its rich history and pushing its boundaries in their own way. The title of "best climber in the world" is subjective and can vary depending on personal opinions and criteria.
Alex Honnold
Date of birth: August 17, 1985.
Place of birth: Sacramento, California, USA.
Specialty: Free solo and big wall climbing.
Notable ascents: Freerider 5.12d (7c+) in free solo, El Capitan (California). Speed record on The Nose with Tommy Caldwell in 1 hour 58 minutes 07 seconds, El Capitan (California, USA).
Tommy Caldwell
Date of birth: August 11, 1978.
Place of birth: Estes Park, Colorado, USA.
Specialty: Big wall and sport climbing.
Notable ascents: Kryptonite 5.14d (9a), The Fortress of Solitude (Colorado, USA). Flex Luthor 5.15a/b (9a+/b), The Fortress of Solitude (Colorado, USA). Free ascent of The Nose in under 12 hours. Other free ascents on El Capitan: Lurking Fear, Muir Wall, West Buttress, Salathé, Zodiac, or Magic Mushroom. First ascent of The Dawn Wall (900m 5.14d), El Capitan (California, USA).
Adam Ondra
Date of birth: February 5, 1993.
Place of birth: Brno, Czech Republic.
Specialty: Sport climbing. Notable ascents: Change 9b+, Flatanger (Norway). La Dura Dura 9b+, Oliana (Catalonia). Silence 9c, Flatanger (Norway). The Dawn Wall (900m 5.14d), El Capitan (California, USA).
Chris Sharma
Date of birth: April 23, 1981.
Place of birth: Santa Cruz, California, USA.
Specialty: Sport climbing and deep-water soloing.
Notable ascents: First Round First Minute 9b, Margalef (Catalonia). La Dura Dura 9b+, Oliana (Catalonia). Es Pontàs 9b, Mallorca (Balearic Islands). Alasha, Mallorca (Balearic Islands).
Emily Harrington
Date of birth: August 17, 1986.
Place of birth: Boulder, Colorado, USA. Specialty: Big wall and sport climbing.
Notable ascents: Golden Gate 5.13b (8a) in a day, El Capitan (California, USA). Waka Flocka 5.14b (8c), Rifle (Colorado, USA).
Margo Hayes
Date of birth: February 11, 1998.
Place of birth: Boulder, Colorado, USA.
Specialty: Sport climbing. Notable ascents: La Rambla 9a+, Siurana (Catalonia). Papichulo 9a+, Oliana (Catalonia). Biographie 9a+, Céüse (France).
Lynn Hill
Date of birth: January 3, 1961.
Place of birth: Detroit, Michigan, USA.
Specialty: Sport climbing and big wall climbing.
Notable ascents: Masse Critique 8b+, Cimaï (France). First free ascent of The Nose, El Capitan (California, USA).
Daniel Woods
Date of birth: August 1, 1989.
Place of birth: Richardson, Texas, USA.
Specialty: Bouldering and sport climbing.
Notable ascents: Empath 5.15a (9a+), Tahoe (California, USA). La Capella 9b, Siurana
Tim visited from NYC and we went climbing in the best climbing areas in Catalunya.face
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(Translated by Google) I did the long route course with Santi and the experience was excellent, with great emphasis on safety and all the factors to take into account when planning a long route and the necessary manoeuvres. The practice day left us to work and find our way on our own, intervening when necessary and always keeping a watchful eye that everything was done safely. Always with good humor and good treatment, which is not less in situations of nerves and tension. Thank you so much!
(Original) Hice el curso de vía larga con Santi y la experiencia fue excelente, con mucho énfasis en la seguridad y todos las factores a tener en cuenta para planificar una vía larga y las maniobras necesarias. El día de práctica nos dejó trabajar y buscar camino solos, interviniendo cuando era necesario y manteniendo siempre una mirada atenta a que todo esté hecho de manera segura. Siempre con buen humor y buen trato, que no es menor en situaciones de nervios y de tensión. Muchas gracias!
(Translated by Google) I'm super glad I found SouthClimb. It was my first time rock climbing, and even though my teammates were more level than me, Yoel was very patient and helped me a lot. I am sure that in a while I will appreciate all the advice and "good uses" that he gave us. 6 stars!
(Original) Estoy super contento de haber encontrado a SouthClimb. Era mi primera vez escalando en roca, y pese a que mis compañeros tenían más nivel que yo, Yoel fue muy paciente y me ayudó un montón. Estoy seguro de que dentro de un tiempo agradeceré todos los consejos y "buenos usos" que él nos regaló. ¡De 6 estrellas!
(Translated by Google) We are a family with two young children and we stayed with Southclimb for a day of sport climbing. We felt safe at all times, and we were struck by the great professionalism and very friendly treatment. We spent an unforgettable day!
(Original) Somos una familia con dos niños pequeños y estuvimos con Southclimb para disfrutar de un día de escalada deportiva. Nos sentimos seguros en todo momento, y nos llamó la atención la gran profesionalidad y el trato muy amable. Pasamos un día inolvidable!
Santi is the best climbing guide you can imagine. As a reference, we two are 6a-7a climbers, but we wanted a local guide to help maximize efficiency in a foreign area. He was highly recommended to us by a friend who Santi guided a few months back, and he was as wonderful as described. He takes his role as Guide seriously and comprehensively, from helping you plan ideas for areas to concentrate on, considerations of weather and season, logistics for where to stay and how to get there (he picked us up one day, and we met him in our car another), as well as making himself available to help with any other questions or needs for the trip as a whole (not just the climbing part). Our long chain of detailed texts show how dedicated and sincere he is in wanting to help plan the best trip possible for you. This was highly unique, unexpected, above and beyond, and much appreciated. Before you've even met, he treats you more like a friend coming to visit Spain than a client that he is just doing business with, and that warmth goes a long way and sets him apart from most any other guide I've experienced (i've had great guides in my life, so this just reinforces Santi's particularly special character). Like I really felt like we were friends, and still feel like we are, as he reaches out and keeps in touch still and I really appreciate that relationship. Humanity, sincerity, and kindness in business--what a crazy (wonderful) concept! As a climbing guide specifically: he is consummately professional, impressively knowledgable and safe, as well as comfortingly sensitive to your climbing abilities and needs, and tailors each day with climbs that are perfect for you--if you want to be comfortable or if you want a little/big challenge, if you want to experience highlights of an area by switching up crags in the same day. He knows the areas so well and of course knows how to choose the walls that are in the shade or in the sun for whatever time of day or season you are climbing. There is so much variety and fun for either multi or single pitch too. In addition, when we were all climbed out for the day, he took the opportunity to show us the beauty of the local areas, playing also a photographer and travel guide. He also went home to let us borrow his guide book to other areas that we were headed to later, and kept in touch to make sure the rest of our trip went smoothly. So nice! Here is a person who treats his job as a climbing guide and ambassador for the area with such deep consideration and earnestness, and who treats his role as a human being with exceptional kindness and faith. We are so grateful that he came into our lives as a climbing guide and as a friend. Thank you Santi for being you, and please everyone call him now for any guiding adventures (he travels to guide too!) Also, his rates are so fair and reasonable. And you will be so happy if he is available to take you on an adventure with him! Cheers!
(Translated by Google) Super experience! We have spent a fantastic morning and very comfortable with Santi. Without having any experience it has been very profitable and fun, we have loved it. Great Santi, thank you very much!! A pleasure to have shared this moment with you! Just great!! Highly recommended!!
(Original) Súper experiencia! Hemos pasado una mañana fantástica y muy a gusto con Santi. Sin tener nada de experiencia ha sido muy provechoso y divertido, nos ha encantado. Gran Santi, muchas gracias!! Un placer haber compartido este momento contigo! Simplemente Genial!! Muy recomendable!!
(Translated by Google) Excellent experience
(Original)Excelente experiencia
(Translated by Google) A very good experience! The truth is that climbing with Santi I learned many things and had even more fun. The explanations were very practical and useful. I wanted to repeat the experience and continue learning. Thank you!
(Original) ¡Una experiència muy buena! La verdad es que escalando con Santi aprendí muchas cosas y me divertí aún más. Las explicaciones fueron muy prácticas e útiles. Me quedé con ganas de repetir la experiencia y seguir aprendiendo. ¡Gracias!
We had an amazing morning climbing with Santi in Arboli. We were all beginners and Santi was very patient and helpful and adapted everything to our level. 100% recommendable!!
Santi is an amazing teacher. It is very clear that he has a lot of experience and you can ask him anything about climbing amongst other things. Santi is also super friendly and easy to get along with. I would absolutely recommend the lead-climbing course I did here. It felt very professional and complete and I think it is one of the best ones you can get. Another note; Santi made awesome pictures of us :-), thank you so much for everything!
(Translated by Google) Highly recommended for people who want to start climbing or want to improve. Excellent and experienced guides, and good atmosphere. You learn and have a good time. What more could you want?
(Original) Muy recomendado para personas que quieran iniciarse en la escalada o quieran mejorar. Guías excelentes y experimentados, y buen ambiente. Aprendes y lo pasas bien. Qué más se puede pedir?
